Yoke could be causing truck to lurch

Q. I have a 2022 Ram 1500 with the 3.6-liter e-Torque V6 engine. I purchased it new, and it currently has about 10,700 miles. It has developed an odd, intermittent problem. In normal, aroundtown driving, after coming to a stop, when I lift off the brake pedal, the truck lurches slightly, almost a jolt, as if I am getting a bumper tap from the car behind me. It feels like something is binding, then letting go. There is nothing audible, but it is felt from behind the wheel. Otherwise, the truck performs flawlessly. Is this the transmission, brakes, or driveshaft? I have spoken to my dealer, as this is clearly covered under warranty, but because it is intermittent, I hesitate to bring it in and hearing, “We couldn’t replicate.” The truck has auto-stop, but this issue only occurs when it remains running when stopped.

Any ideas?

A. There are no bulletins for this issue, but what you describe is sometimes called trailer-hitching. With some trucks, the front yoke of the driveshaft gets hung up on the output shaft of the transmission. When you stop, the yoke hangs up and then bumps/ slides as you take your foot off the brake. The fix is usually cleaning, polishing, and lubing the yoke.

Q. My car had a code, which was cleared/repaired and then the car was put through the drive cycle, I think it reset emission monitors. The check engine light came back on after being off for weeks. I stopped by a Chevrolet dealership where I bought car, and they are telling me the following: They need to do a diagnostic scan, make necessary repairs, clear the code, and perform another drive cycle (really!) Do you agree with this to get the car emissions inspection ready? Especially another drive cycle?

A

. Yes, I agree with all of this. The technician needs to find the problem, repair the problem, and verify the repair worked. The technician needs to run the drive cycle because they cleared the code after the repair.

Q. The idle stop is not working on my 2019 Jeep Wrangler. Recently I had the stop/start battery replaced. It was four years old and was not working. That did not solve the problem and the mechanic said both batteries should be replaced together, so I had the main battery changed too. The system still does not work. The light in the dash is on and the menu says the system needs service. Now the mechanic says I must drive it for a week to reset the stop/start system. Is it correct that both batteries should be changed together? Will it reset as the mechanic says? I am not a fan of the stop/ start feature and usually just push the button to bypass it, but I’m a stickler about things working as designed.

A

. Typically, both batteries are replaced together, because in some cases you need to remove one to get to the other and they have both seen the same amount of service. The auxiliary battery is located in the fender area and depending on the vehicle you remove the inner fender liner or remove the main battery, battery tray and distribution center. Once both batteries are installed, the charging system needs to be updated. This can be done using a special tool or by removing and reinstalling the IBS (intelligent battery sensor). The two batteries are connected together most of the time, but when one is replaced, the IBS system sees a low voltage on one battery and can disable the start/stop. Sometimes it will reset after four “sleep” cycles of more than four hours, so your shop may be correct that driving and then parking for a week should get everything back to normal. The IBS can also get confused during jump starts, repeated short trips or improper charging with a battery charger and can be checked with a professional scan tool.

Q

. My Ford Edge has 30,000 miles on it and is now five years old. I really love this car, but recently the heated driver’s seat stopped working. The illuminated dashboard switch does light, but no heat comes out of the seat. The passenger side is fine. I looked up the fuse diagram and it says there is one fuse for both heated seats so I assume the fuse must be fine since the passenger seat works. I have read others have had this issue with the driver’s seat as well. Before I bring it to the dealer, might you have any ideas/ thoughts? Is there anything I could try first?

A

. Tracing the wiring diagram, you are correct that both sides are powered by the same fuse. With the passenger seat working you know the fuse is good. The next step is to see if there is power to the heater mat. A Ford-specific or professional scan tool would be helpful. The problem could be wiring or a poor connection under the seat, a sensor or the heater mat itself. Older models of the Edge had what I would call early failure of the heated grid in the seat.