Daily Local News (West Chester, PA)
FARM to TABLE
Area chef/restaurant owner gives his menus a fresh touch
Sean Weinberg enjoys playing the middle man. Weinberg, who is the owner — along with his wife, Kelly, who runs the dining room — and chef of Restaurant Alba in Malvern, believes that an important part of his job is to create a personal connection between his customers and the farms that produce the food he prepares and serves.
Most of his food comes from local farms.
“I feel obligated as a chef to support local farms,” he said. “It benefits the local economy and it puts fresh food on the table.”
He also believes he is following the tenets of Italian cuisine, which he showcases in his restaurant. “True Italian cuisine highlights local ingredients.” And, he said, Italian culture creates a connection to the land for the people.
In the height of the local farm season, Weinberg changes his menu every two to three weeks to take advantage of the micro seasons. There are even times when a two- to three-week change isn’t enough. “I deal with small farms, he said, explaining why he has an antipasti offering that changes daily. “I have farmers that call and say, ‘I have two dozen squash blossoms,’” and Weinberg will find a use for them that night on the menu. “Most places won’t bother ( with that small a quantity).”
Even in the middle of winter, he can still hold true to the farm-to-table concept. “We still have the meats and the dairy. We get local apples and cellar items,” he said. He also added that many farms are using hoop houses to grow produce over the winter.
But the supply is not nearly as great as it is during the spring, summer and fall. Because of this, he only changes his menu every five to seven weeks.
On the bottom of Restaurant Alba’s menu are a list of local providers. “Special Thanks to our Farmers and Fishermen,” it reads. One of the offerings on Restaurant Alba’s menu is Veal Saltimbocca, the veal for which comes from Birchrun Hills Farm.
Sue Miller is the owner of the West Vincent farm where they raise dairy cattle, primarily for cheese.
“Sean is really special to our farm,” she said. He was the one who convinced Sue, her husband and their son to sell him the veal and expand their business. “He told me that if we did he would be our first customer.” Miller sells what is called rose veal because of its pink color. She said this is because the animals are grass fed and pasture raised. They also don’t use hormones or antibiotics.
Miller said there is economic power in eating locally. “Every dairy cow puts $12,000 into the local economy.”
And as an example of how he is the middle man in this operation, Miller said she has people come up to her at her farm market stands and tell her they have eaten the veal at Restaurant Alba and want to try it on their own.
“People want to understand where their food comes from,” she said. They want to know they can trust that it comes from good, quality farms and fields.