FRIED CHICKEN IS CRACKLING

South Korea is the world’s most dedicated and miraculous laboratory for fried chicken, perhaps the only place in the world as obsessed with breaded poultry as the American South.

South Korea now boasts more than 80,000 restaurants, and at least one soap opera, devoted to chimaek: the sacred, double-fisted combo of fried chicken and beer made popular in 2002 during the Korea–Japan World Cup. As of the beginning of 2020, one in four franchises in South Korea was a fried chicken stop.

Over the past decade or so, the crispy, crackly, double-dipped Korean fried chicken has also been slowly taking over America. And locally, the pace has accelerated this year. Early in 2019, Hampton Roads sported only a couple dedicated Korean fried chicken spots. Now there are two dueling Seoul food chains and at least three homegrown spots dedicated to Korean fried chicken.

What differentiates Korean fried chicken is simple: the flavors, and the double dip in the fryer that leads to both less grease and more crispness. When corn or potato

L. TODD SPENCER/STAFF Choong Man Chicken’s order of garlic soy tikkudak chicken wings. The restaurant chain has opened three locations in Hampton Roads in the past six months.

SONJA BARISIC The combo platter at Chick N Roll includes three fried chicken wings, a sushi roll and choice of french fries or coleslaw.