Daily Press

Turning nests into nest eggs

In Indonesia, farmers cater to swiftlet birds’ every whim to export their roosts for cash

- By Richard C. Paddock and Muktita Suhartono

PERAPAKAN, Indonesia — With no windows, the gloomy, gray building looming four stories above the rice fields in a remote village in Indonesian Borneo resembles nothing more than a prison.

Hundreds of similar concrete structures, riddled with small holes for ventilatio­n, tower over village shops and homes all along Borneo’s northweste­rn coast.

But these buildings are not for people. They are for the birds. Specifical­ly, the swiftlet, which builds its nests inside.

Zulkibli, 56, a government worker who built his giant birdhouse in the village of Perapakan in 2010, supplement­s his income by harvesting the swiftlets’ nests and selling them for export to China.

The nests, made from the birds’ saliva, are the key ingredient in bird’s nest soup, an expensive delicacy believed by many Chinese to have health benefits.

Left to their own devices, swiftlets usually make their nests in coastal caves, where harvesting them can be hazardous work. The key to attracting the birds to a human-made home, Zulkibli said, is treating them like “rich humans” and guaranteei­ng their comfort and safety. Zulkibli, like many Indonesian­s, goes by one name.

“Comfort, by regulating the temperatur­e,” he said. “Safety, by keeping pests and predators away. The swiftlet house must be really clean. They don’t even like spiders.”

Government officials say Indonesia is the world’s largest exporter of swiftlet nests. Sambas Regency, the county-size region in West Kalimantan province where Perapakan is located, is a major producer, with the birds thriving in its marshy coastal areas, rich with insects.

The bird nest business can be lucrative. Over the past decade, so many property owners in this sparsely populated region of coconut palms and banana trees were eager to cash in that the number of birdhouses here jumped fivefold, Zulkibli said.

In a twist on condo conversion­s, some people even remodeled the upper floors of their homes — blacking out windows and drilling ventilatio­n holes — to make them habitable for swiftlets.

Swiftlets are fast-flying, insect-eating birds that can cover vast distances in a day, using echolocati­on to navigate in low-light environmen­ts. They build as many as three nests a year, Zulkibli said, frequently changing their nesting sites.

With the region’s glut of birdhouses, many now have vacancies. “The birds have many choices,” Zulkibli said.

So owners compete to lure the swiftlets by playing recordings of the clicking sounds they make as they echolocate.

The small, delicate nests are carefully harvested with a specialize­d tool similar to a paint scraper and then cleaned. Intact white nests bring the best prices.

The theft of birds nests is a common problem. Zulkibli said his birdhouse has been burgled 20 times, with the thieves sometimes breaking through its concrete walls.

Birdhouse owners say that they wait until the fledglings have left the nest before they harvest and that neither the parents nor their babies are harmed. But sometimes, burglars steal nests prematurel­y, killing hatchlings in the process.

One farmer, Suhardi, 52, said he harvests a little more than 3 pounds a month and sells it for $1,500.

 ?? NYIMAS LAULA/THE NEW YORK TIMES 2023 ?? A freshly harvested swiftlet’s nest is displayed in Indonesia’s coastal city of Singkawang.
NYIMAS LAULA/THE NEW YORK TIMES 2023 A freshly harvested swiftlet’s nest is displayed in Indonesia’s coastal city of Singkawang.

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