Spaghetti with lentils, tomato and fennel

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

1 cup small lentils, such as Castelluccio orPuy

Asmall piece ofParmesan rind (optional)

Kosher salt and black pepper 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 small onion, diced (about 1 cup)

2 small fennel bulbs, diced (about 2 cups), lacy green fronds finely chopped and reserved

½ teaspoon crushed fennel seeds

½ teaspoon red-pepper flakes

3 garlic cloves, minced

½ cup tomato passata or crushed canned tomato 1 pound spaghetti

Shavings of ricotta salata or pecorino cheese

1. Rinse lentils. Put them in a saucepan and cover with water by 1 inch. Toss in Parmesan rind, if using. Add a good pinch of salt and place over high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook until soft, about 30 minutes. Drain lentils and reserve cooking water.

2. Aslentils cook, put 3 tablespoons oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. When oil iswavy, add diced onion and fennel, and season with salt and pepper. Add fennel seeds and red-pepper flakes. Cook, stirring, until softened and slightly caramelized, about 10 minutes.

3. Addgarlic, passata and 2 or 3 tablespoons finely chopped fennel fronds. Stir to combine and add drained lentils. Turn heat to medium and simmer for 10 minutes or so, until somewhat thickened. Taste and correct seasoning, then cook for 5 minutes more, so the flavors meld. Add lentil cookingwater as necessary to keep everything saucy.

4. Assauce cooks, set a largepotofsaltedwater to boil. Cook the spaghetti until al dente. Divide among individual bowls and ladle sauce over each serving.

Top with shavings of ricotta salata and more chopped fennel fronds. Drizzle with a little extra-virgin olive oil, if desired.

The hearty lentil topping for the spaghetti is a bit like a Bolognese ragù, and the addition of fennel— seeds, bulb and chopped green fronds— gives it surprising brightness andzest.