Berry good
3 savory ways to use strawberries
Shortcake’s sublime. Pie’s pleasant. And trifle’s terrific. But this season, sample strawberries’ savory side, starting with spaghetti.
“It’s a little sweet, a little tart, a little acid. It’s surprisingly good,” described Brenda Kieffer, executive chef at Kieffer’s Appliances in Upper Gwynedd. “Everybody I’ve ever made it for looks at me like I’ve got two heads. And then they taste it, and they love it.”
She combines strawberries, San Marzano tomatoes, high-quality balsamic vinegar and homemade egg pasta.
“When there are fresh, local strawberries, it’s really an amazing dish,” said Kieffer, also an instructor at Montgomery County Community College’s Culinary Enthusiast program.
Just “don’t make it outside of strawberry season.” And “please don’t put cheese on it,” she added with a laugh.
However, cheese lovers can enjoy strawberry-goat cheese bruschetta, “a somewhat sweet, mostly savory, all-delicious appetizer or even dessert” from The Inn at Grace Winery in Glen Mills.
“I like using fruit in savory recipes,” said chef Scott Megill. “It’s always kind of unexpected.”
He serves Shellbark Hollow Farm’s goat cheese on a “good sourdough or multigrain baguette” with “luscious strawberries” and “brown sugar because it gives another little depth of flavor.”
“A big part of my philosophy in general is trying to use the best product you can and showcasing it,” he explained.
And for an entrée, try grilled chipotle pork tenderloin with spicy strawberry salsa.
“That’s a great one that my chef created,” said Chris Welsh, executive chef and owner of The Secret Ingredient Personal Chef Service based in Wayne. “It’s that delicate balance between savory and sweet.”
Chipotle adds just the right amount of heat.
“It’s tough to do it and have it work because if the hot dominates sweet or vice versa, you miss the point,” she noted. “I think it’s a perfect recipe, and I love the salsa.”
Spaghetti with Strawberries INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon grape-seed oil or other neutral oil
1½ cups strawberries, cut in half or quarters, if large 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 cups peeled whole San Marzano tomatoes (canned) ¼ cup slivered almonds, toasted ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper 1 pound spaghetti 1 tablespoon basil chiffonade (cut into thin strips)
INSTRUCTIONS
Put grape-seed oil and half of the berries in a skillet. Add the balsamic. Cook on medium until tender and starting to release their juices. Add the remaining half of the berries. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Squeeze and break up the tomatoes into the same skillet as the berries. Add salt and pepper, stir and lower the heat to a simmer. Cook until thickened, but not dry - maybe 15 minutes. Cook the spaghetti according to the package directions. Add cooked pasta directly to the skillet with a wire mesh strainer. (You want some of the water to cling to the pasta as you transfer.) Stir the pasta to coat and heat, adding a little pasta water if the sauce seems too dry. Sprinkle with basil and almonds.
Grilled Chipotle Pork Tenderloin with Spicy Strawberry Salsa
Serves 6 to 8
INGREDIENTS
For the pork: 3 (1-pound) pork tenderloins, trimmed ¼ cup chipotle peppers (canned in adobo sauce), drained and minced 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 teaspoons garlic powder