Custard sheds a few layers
Lady Macbeth used spiked possets to drug the royal bodyguards so her husband could murder the king. That was the only thing I knew about possets until Diana Henry showed me that they had far kinder uses.
Historically a milk-based libation fortified with ale or wine, posset these days more likely refers to dessert — specifically, a lemony custard topped with berries that’s a summer treat across Britain.
I came across my first pudding like posset in Diana Henry’s marvelous cookbook “Simple” (Mitchell Beazley, 2016).
“A posset is a wonder,” she writes, “all you do is heat cream, add citrus juice and let cool, and yet you end up with a silky, rich dessert.”
It sounded too good and easy to be true. How could a mix of just cream, sugar and citrus juice — without eggs, gelatin or cornstarch — yield a custard firm enough to support a crown of berries? You don’t even have to bake anything in a messy water bath.
So I gave it a go, figuring that even if it didn’t set, I’d at least end up with something sweetly sloshy that I could pour over my berries — then pretend that was how I meant to serve them in the first place.
Happily, I was wrong, and the recipe was right. The posset gelled perfectly, like panna cotta without the wobble. It was creamy and velvety, thick enough to mound onto my spoon, but also ethereally light, with a bright, pure cream flavor that was just tangy enough.
I later learned that the secret to any posset is to simmer the cream and sugar for a few minutes before adding the lemon juice. This thickens the cream, ensuring that it forms a plush pudding rather than curdling when the acid hits.
Most posset recipes call for only three ingredients — cream, sugar and lemon juice — in varying proportions. Henry adds orange juice and a rosemary sprig to hers. My version plays up the lemon, heightening the juice with loads of grated zest. Then I top everything with sugared strawberries dusted with black pepper, which gives a hint of spice without overwhelming the fruit.
But possets are very adaptable, so feel free to play around with different citrus (lime, grapefruit, Meyer lemons), other fruity toppings and the amount of sugar. Because no matter how you mix it, a posset will always make for a killer dessert.
NO-BAKE LEMON CUSTARDS WITH STRAWBERRIES
Time: 35 minutes, plus chilling Yield: 6 servings FOR THE CUSTARDS: 2 cups heavy cream ⅔ cup sugar
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest (from 1 to 2 lemons)
Pinch of fine sea salt ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice
(from 2 to 3 lemons)
FOR THE STRAWBERRY
TOPPING:
1 cup sliced strawberries 1 to 2 teaspoons granulated
sugar
Freshly ground black
pepper, for serving
1. In a medium saucepan, combine cream, sugar, lemon zest and salt over mediumhigh heat. Bring to simmer, stirring frequently to dissolve sugar. Simmer vigorously until mixture thickens slightly, about 4 to 5 minutes.
2. Remove from heat and stir in lemon juice. Let sit until mixture has cooled slightly and a skin forms on top, about 20 minutes.
3. Stir mixture, then strain through fine-mesh strainer into a measuring cup with a spout; discard zest. Pour mixture evenly into six 6-ounce ramekins or small bowls.
4. Refrigerate, uncovered, until set, at least 3 hours.
5. As the custards chill, prepare the strawberry topping: Toss strawberries and sugar in a small mixing bowl. Let fruit macerate at room temperature for 30 minutes to 1 hour, until the sugar is dissolved.
6. To serve, top each lemon custard with some strawberry topping and grind black pepper on top.