Fresh beans come out of their shell
Summer cooking is all about fresh vegetables. It’s the season for salads, leafy and otherwise. Nearly every offering at the produce stand qualifies.
Just now, beans of every stripe are making their way to the market. From my perspective, beans ranks high on the scale of superb summer vegetables. Their flavor is as heavenly as the finest asparagus. There is comfort in a bean.
Slender string beans in green and yellow, wax beans, flat wide Romano beans and purple-striped dragon tongues are piled high. Every year, when all of these are available, I buy a handful of each for a salad of colorful summer beans. But I am sure to buy a couple of pounds of fresh shell beans in the pod, too.
Shell beans are, quite simply, sensational. Look for crimson-podded cranberry beans (called borlotti when dried) or fresh limas. Fresh, pale butter beans (like butter) and ivory-colored cannellini (buonissimo) are also favorites. Or try one of the diminutive highly speckled types such as Jacob’s Cattle.
Fair warning, though: Once you’re hooked on fresh shell beans, it’s for life. There’s no turning back. As opposed to dried beans, fresh beans need but 30 minutes of simmering to become soft, creamy and utterly sublime.
To return to our recipe, say you have procured your beans. Allot time to cook the shell beans slowly, and all the others briefly. (Count two to four minutes depending on size.) It’s best to cook each kind separately, so none are overcooked. That’s not hard; just have a large pot of salty boiling water going and cook them sequentially. When all have cooled, combine them in a bowl, add the drained shell beans and some halved cherry tomatoes, and dress with an assertive garlicky vinaigrette.
Served room temperature, this dish is perfect for a colorful lunch or supper. Use the method as a template for making similar salads all summer long.
PEPPERY LAMB WITH SHELL BEANS AND CHERRY TOMATOES
Yield: 6 servings Total time: 1 ¼ hours FOR THE LAMB
4 pounds boneless lamb leg
(ask for lamb sirloin) Kosher salt
2 tablespoons coarsely crushed
black peppercorns 1 tablespoon coarsely crushed
coriander seeds
2 cups fresh cranberry beans or other fresh shell beans (from about 1 ½ pounds in the pod) 1 ½ pounds young green beans, or a mix of green beans, Romano beans and yellow wax beans, topped and tailed ½ pound cherry tomatoes, preferably of different colors, halved
Basil leaves, for serving Cilantro sprigs, for serving FOR THE VINAIGRETTE
2 garlic cloves, minced Kosher salt and black pepper 1 teaspoon chopped anchovy
fillets (optional)
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar or lemon juice, plus more to taste
½ teaspoon finely chopped
thyme or rosemary leaves ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1. Season the lamb on all sides with salt. Place in a roasting pan and coat with crushed peppercorns and coriander. Set aside for 10 to 15 minutes to allow meat to absorb seasoning. (You may do this up to 2 hours ahead.)
2. Put shell beans in a small saucepan and cover with 1 inch of water. Add a teaspoon of salt, bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer gently for 20 to 25 minutes, until tender. Leave to cool in their cooking liquid.
3. Bring a larger pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook green beans until firm-tender, 3 to 4 minutes, then remove and spread out on a baking sheet to cool. (If using an assortment of beans, cook each type separately in the same pot. Taste a bean after 2 minutes to gauge doneness. They should be firm but not crunchy.)
4. Heat oven to 400 degrees, or prepare a grill. Roast lamb, uncovered, for about 30 minutes, until medium-rare or until an internal thermometer reads 125 degrees. If grilling, brown meat over hot coals, then move to the side, cover grill and finish cooking with indirect heat. Remove from heat and let rest for at least 10 minutes before carving.
5. As lamb cooks, make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, combine garlic, a pinch of salt and pepper, anchovy (if using), mustard, vinegar and thyme. Whisk in oil. Taste and adjust seasoning.
6. Put shell beans, green beans and cherry tomatoes in a large bowl, sprinkle lightly with salt and add vinaigrette. Toss well to coat, then transfer mixture to a serving platter.
7. Cut lamb into ⅛-inch slices and arrange over the top. Garnish with basil leaves and cilantro sprigs. Serve at room temperature.