Don’t call it pilaf
Potato salad has its charms, but you probably wouldn’t eat a whole plate of it. Rice salad, on the other hand, can make a fine summer meal. Popular throughout the Mediterranean, there are many types, and all are summery.
Italians claim insalata di riso as their own. There are variations, of course. In the North, a rice salad may contain shrimp or other shellfish and cooked zucchini or artichokes. A Roman version will contain pickled vegetables, capers, tomatoes and tuna (and sometimes prosciutto cotto, cubed cheese and canned corn).
A French salade de riz can be au jambon, with cooked ham, peas and green beans and perhaps chicken; or a la Provençale, with tuna, tomatoes and basil, along with peppers, olives and a vinaigrette. Chopped egg may be present in either. There are also innumerable “creative” French versions found in food magazines and online, with avocado and smoked salmon, for example.
In Spain, ensalada de arroz is similar to rice salads in Southern France, with tuna, peppers and olives, but sometimes mayonnaise is added. The salad may also be spooned into piquillo peppers to be served as tapas.
My rice salad this week, flecked with currants, almonds and pistachios, veers Middle Eastern. There’s even a dab of tahini in the lemony dressing. It’s good on its own, with a few salad leaves, but I think it makes a nice accompaniment to grilled chicken or fish. To make it more festive, I could add cherries, dates or pomegranate. Another interpretation could contain chickpeas or lentils.
There is a rice salad for every taste. All are simple to prepare and perfect for hot weather, but as with most cooking, care must be taken. You’ll want to follow a few guidelines: First, use high-quality rice. I prefer to use Italian carnaroli or arborio, but any type will suffice as long as it is not overcooked. Second, cook the rice just before you make the salad (don’t use day-old rice), and don’t refrigerate it.
Third, boil the rice as you would pasta, in a large pot of salted water. You want separate grains that are still a bit firm. Drain the rice and spread it on a platter to cool. Some cooks advise rinsing it with cold water, but I never do. Finally, show some restraint when choosing ingredients. Don’t be tempted to clean out the refrigerator. Sometimes leftovers may be incorporated, but judiciously; don’t go overboard. A rice salad is at its best when it’s fresh and simple.
RICE SALAD WITH CURRANTS, ALMONDS AND PISTACHIOS
Yield: 6 servings
Total time: 45 minutes
2 cups short-grain rice, such as arborio
Salt and pepper 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons tahini
3 tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1/2 cup currants, soaked in hot water and drained
1 cup whole roasted almonds, roughly chopped
1/2 cup whole roasted pistachios, roughly chopped
3 tablespoons snipped chives
3 tablespoons chopped mint
2 teaspoons chopped savory or thyme
1/2 cup chopped parsley
1. Bring 8 cups water to a boil in a large pot. Add the rice and 2 tablespoons salt. Boil rice as you would pasta, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes until done, but still al dente. Drain and spread out on a rimmed baking sheet to cool.
2. Once cool, transfer rice to a large salad bowl. In a small bowl, stir together olive oil, tahini, lemon juice and lemon zest. Add salt and pepper to taste. Gently fold mixture into rice.
3. Add currants, almonds, pistachios, chives, mint, savory and parsley. Toss to distribute. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more lemon juice or salt as necessary. Serve at room temperature.