Ba­sic weav­ing is easy to do, and a lit­tle creativ­ity can dress up the sim­plest weave. For any type, start with a warped loom and a ta­pes­try nee­dle threaded with two arm’s lengths of yarn.

Do It Yourself - - What To Do With -

1 TABBY The most ba­sic weave be­gins at the bot­tom of a loom, weav­ing un­der the first warp thread and over the sec­ond and con­tin­u­ing across the loom. At end of row, pull yarn through and leave a 3-inch tail at the start­ing point.

For sec­ond row, weave in op­po­site di­rec­tion above the first row, weav­ing over then un­der so the yarn wraps the warp threads op­po­site of the first row. Be care­ful not to pull the yarn too tight or leave it too loose. Ev­ery few rows, com­press the yarn for a tight, straight weave by push­ing rows down us­ing your fin­gers, a weav­ing fork, or a wide-tooth comb. This sec­tion of the pil­low is 14 rows of blue, then five rows of cream and three rows of blue. Re­peat un­til you have five rows of cream.

2 DOU­BLED YARN Make your weave thicker and heftier by dou­bling the yarn and go­ing un­der one, then over two warp threads for each stitch. This sec­tion is two rows of green, seven rows of pink, two rows of green. In the cen­ter of the pink sec­tion, knot gold yarn on the back of your piece and sew four gold loops to cre­ate a flower shape. Criss-cross stitches of pink yarn at the cen­ter of each flower shape.

3 ROUNDED SHAPES Us­ing terra cotta-color yarn, tabby weave de­sired num­ber of stitches (we did 18 on the pil­low above) then switch direc­tions. Ev­ery time you switch direc­tions, leave off a warp thread at each end to cre­ate a curved hill shape. Cre­ate three terra-cotta hills across the piece. Us­ing a dif­fer­ent yarn, weave a sin­gle row of tabby along the top of your hills to out­line them. Us­ing blue yarn, fill in the lower swoop of the hills and then weave blue hills on top to cre­ate al­mond shapes. Out­line the shape as be­fore. Weave a light green yarn in the low swoops of the blue hills un­til a straight line forms along the top of each blue al­mond shape.

4 LOOPED TABBY This vari­a­tion of­fers tex­tu­ral in­ter­est and is best when cre­ated with a thick, chunky yarn. Weave a row of tabby, then ev­ery time the weft crosses the warp, pinch the yarn with your fin­gers, pull up, and twist slightly to cre­ate loops above the weav­ing. Weave an­other three rows of tabby above the loops. Cre­ate a sec­ond row of looped tabby if de­sired.

5 MESSY LOOPS Tabby weave mul­ti­ple rows of thin yarns (ours are dark blue and ev­er­green), al­ter­nat­ing col­ors and in­sert­ing sec­tions of looped tabby for tex­ture. Ran­dom­ness—in sec­tions of both col­ors and loops— gives this weave its levity.

6 FUZZY TAS­SELS Weave 28 tabby rows of pink yarn. Where de­sired, weave five-strand thick­nesses of lighter pink in about 11∕2-inch-long sec­tions, leav­ing 1-inch tails on ei­ther end as fuzzy tas­sels of each light pink sec­tion.

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