ME­TAL WALL ART MA­TE­RI­ALS

Do It Yourself - - What To Do With -

• 36x48-inch gal­va­nized-steel flat sheet • Snips

• Gloves

• Pro­tec­tive eye­wear

• Drill and bit

• Jump rings, 8 mm and 12 mm • Nee­dle-nose pli­ers

• Spray primer

• Gold spray paint

• Acrylic rod with rings

Step 1 Mark a grid of lines ev­ery 4 inches on sheet me­tal. Wear gloves while cut­ting out the squares us­ing snips. Drill small holes into all four cor­ners of each square.

Step 2 Bend the squares on the di­ag­o­nal (as di­a­mond shapes) by us­ing a scrap piece of wood or some­thing with a sturdy 90-de­gree edge as a guide.

Aim for or near 90 de­grees. Bend half the squares with the marker lines on the back and the other half with the marker lines on the front.

Step 3 Turn all marker lines to the back, and use 8-mm jump rings to join the di­a­monds at all cor­ners, cre­at­ing a pat­tern with ev­ery other row folded down and then up in an ac­cor­dion­fold look. Leave empty spa­ces in the art­work for an or­ganic ef­fect.

Step 4 Prime the art­work’s front side, let dry, then spray-paint it gold. Let dry. At­tach the drap­ery rings to the top of the art­work us­ing larger jump rings.

Step 5 Hang from rod in­stalled on wall.

AN­GLE FIN­DER This 3-D ac­cent wall, left, made by at­tach­ing 1×1s to a wall, harkens back to high school ge­om­e­try class. Plan your de­sign on a piece of graph pa­per first. Fol­low your own math­e­mat­i­cal muse, or do what we did: Di­vide the wall into two tri­an­gles with a di­ag­o­nal line (see Di­a­gram A, op­po­site, for ref­er­ence). Solve for the equa­tion A2+B2=C2 to find its length. For our 8×8-foot wall, the lower-left-to­top-right di­ag­o­nal is 11 feet 4 inches. We di­vided the half be­low the di­ag­o­nal into three even sec­tions—two equilat­eral tri­an­gles (bot­tom left and up­per right), with a mid­dle sec­tion ex­tend­ing to the bot­tom right cor­ner of the wall. Above the di­ag­o­nal line, we cre­ated a large equilat­eral tri­an­gle on the left side, then di­vided the re­main­ing portion in half again. Within each sec­tion we ap­plied boards in ver­ti­cal, hor­i­zon­tal, or di­ag­o­nal ori­en­ta­tions. Cut the 1×1s and miter ends to fit. Sand, prime, and paint the pieces in semigloss. Use a nail gun and fin­ish nails to in­stall on the wall, painted with a flat fin­ish. Fill and paint nail holes. The flat ver­sus semigloss sheen cre­ates ad­di­tional di­men­sion and makes the trim more durable—the fin­ger­prints from in­stal­la­tion and dust eas­ily wipe away on the shiny fin­ish.

INTO THE FOLD An in­tri­cately folded pa­per lamp­shade, left and op­po­site, cov­ers a low-wattage bulb and pen­dant light kit with origami styling. Start with sheets of 98-pound or

160 GSM pa­per (card­stock is too rigid). Our 12×501/2-inch pa­per and the 21/2-inch spac­ing for folds is the right scale for a pen­dant light. Find our mark­ing and scor­ing guide to fin­ish the project, along with the how-to video at BHG.com/ PaperShade. Be cer­tain to mark and score fold­ing lines very care­fully—we used a gold marker and the wrong side of a crafts knife for the job (A). Af­ter you’re done scor­ing and fold­ing, thread the shade onto the pen­dant cord, then use string to tie the shade to­gether at the top, hold­ing its shape.

GEO­MET­RIC DOME Put pa­per shapes un­der glass for an art­ful dis­play of your fold­ing skills, left. Print out our tem­plates of an oc­ta­he­dron (yel­low), tetra­he­dron (light aqua), icosa­he­dron (light pink), do­dec­a­he­dron (beige), hexag­o­nal prism with pyra­mid ends (dark aqua), and di­hexag­o­nal dipyra­mid (dark red) di­rectly onto card­stock. (Find tem­plates for shapes and a how-to video for cre­at­ing the cloche art­work at BHG.com/Cloche.) Cut out shapes with a crafts knife (pre­ci­sion is key) and fold, keep­ing fold lines to the in­side of each shape. Glue each tab as di­rected, hold­ing each in place for 30 sec­onds to let glue set up. Use a tooth­pick to spread the glue care­fully onto the tabs to keep the out­side of the shapes clean. In­sert 16-gauge or florists wire into the bot­tom of each shape; add a tiny drop of hot glue to hold wire in place, if de­sired. To de­ter­mine place­ment in­side cloche, make a pa­per tem­plate of the cloche bot­tom and place it atop a piece of foam (A). Poke wires through pa­per into foam un­til de­sired wire spac­ing and place­ment is de­ter­mined. Use the pa­per tem­plate to show you where to drill holes in the cloche bot­tom. In­stall wire ends into the drilled holes with a tiny drop of hot glue (B). Cover with the glass dome.

A cast-con­crete do­dec­a­he­dron, above, makes for a shapely—and sturdy— ob­jet d’art. Us­ing the tem­plate avail­able at BHG.com/Con­crete, print and cut two shapes from card­board (we used a ship­ping box from the re­cy­cle bin, en­sur­ing the in­side face was clean and smooth). Fold each shape and cover all seams (to avoid leak­age) with duct tape on the out­side of the card­board (A). Duct tape the two halves to­gether and re­move one of the pen­ta­gons to al­low ac­cess to the in­side of the card­board mold (B). Mix a 4:1 ra­tio of quick-drying cement to wa­ter (look for pud­ding con­sis­tency) and spoon into the mold, tap­ping to elim­i­nate air bub­bles. Let dry 24 hours, then re­move from mold.

A

AB

AB AP­PLY STICK-ON RUB­BER FEET TO PRE­VENT CHIPPING OR SCRATCH­ING. USE GO­RILLA GLUE TOSE­CURE THEM.

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