• Two 2×8 boards cut into two 37-inch and four 275/8-inch
• Chop saw or miter saw
• Pocket-hole jig (we used a Kreg jig)
• Drill and drill bits
• 2½-inch Kreg Blue-Kote Pocket-Hole Screws
• Clear waterproof sealant
• Wide paintbrush
• 1-inch and 2-inch #12 sheet metal screws
• 7-inch shelf brackets
Step 1 On the back of one of the 37-inch boards, mark placement of three pocket holes evenly spaced along one long side. Measure the thickness of one of the boards and set the jig to that depth. Adjust the depth collar on the drill bit to that measurement. Drill a pocket hole at each mark.
Step 2 Clamp the long sides of the 37-inch boards together with pocket holes exiting in the seam. Fasten boards with pockethole screws to make the console top.
Step 3 Repeat Steps 1 and 2 using two 275/8-inch boards and pocket holes at the top and the underside at the bottom to make one leg. Repeat with the remaining 275/8-inch boards to make the second leg.
Step 4 Sand; wipe off sanding dust. Seal the tabletop and legs with clear waterproof sealant. Let dry.
Step 5 Referring to the photo, inset opposite, use 1-inch screws to attach the thin side of bracket to the outside middle of each leg board. Use 2-inch screws to attach the thick side of brackets to the underside of the tabletop.
ABOVE IT ALL The pergola shades the space and contributes to its roomlike feel.
The structure extends from a ledger board bolted to the side of the house, just above the recessed wall area. A pair of notched 8×8 posts supports the outside edge of the structure. Each 2×6 slat is attached at an angle, using a handmade jig to keep the spacing and angle consistent. The finished pergola was painted with white exterior acrylic paint.