Do It Yourself - - Make It -


• Two 2×8 boards cut into two 37-inch and four 275/8-inch


• Chop saw or miter saw

• Pocket-hole jig (we used a Kreg jig)

• Drill and drill bits

• Clamps

• 2½-inch Kreg Blue-Kote Pocket-Hole Screws

• Sand­pa­per

• Clear wa­ter­proof sealant

• Wide paint­brush

• 1-inch and 2-inch #12 sheet metal screws

• 7-inch shelf brack­ets

Step 1 On the back of one of the 37-inch boards, mark place­ment of three pocket holes evenly spaced along one long side. Mea­sure the thick­ness of one of the boards and set the jig to that depth. Ad­just the depth col­lar on the drill bit to that mea­sure­ment. Drill a pocket hole at each mark.

Step 2 Clamp the long sides of the 37-inch boards to­gether with pocket holes ex­it­ing in the seam. Fas­ten boards with pock­et­hole screws to make the con­sole top.

Step 3 Re­peat Steps 1 and 2 us­ing two 275/8-inch boards and pocket holes at the top and the un­der­side at the bot­tom to make one leg. Re­peat with the re­main­ing 275/8-inch boards to make the sec­ond leg.

Step 4 Sand; wipe off sanding dust. Seal the table­top and legs with clear wa­ter­proof sealant. Let dry.

Step 5 Re­fer­ring to the photo, in­set op­po­site, use 1-inch screws to at­tach the thin side of bracket to the out­side mid­dle of each leg board. Use 2-inch screws to at­tach the thick side of brack­ets to the un­der­side of the table­top.

ABOVE IT ALL The pergola shades the space and con­trib­utes to its room­like feel.

The struc­ture ex­tends from a ledger board bolted to the side of the house, just above the re­cessed wall area. A pair of notched 8×8 posts sup­ports the out­side edge of the struc­ture. Each 2×6 slat is at­tached at an an­gle, us­ing a hand­made jig to keep the spac­ing and an­gle con­sis­tent. The fin­ished pergola was painted with white ex­te­rior acrylic paint.

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