COF­FEE TA­BLE MA­TE­RI­ALS

Do It Yourself - - Make It -

• Two 2×4 8-foot Dou­glas fir fram­ing studs • Miter saw or cir­cu­lar saw

• Wood glue

• Clamps

• Square

• 16 #8×2½-inch wood screws

• Drill

• ½-inch and 7/64-inch wood drill bits

• Or­bital palm sander

• 120-grit sand­pa­per

• ½×36-inch round wood dowel

• Matte black spray paint

• Dan­ish oil (we used Watco in dark wal­nut)

• Rags

• La­tex gloves

• Eight 3½-inch flat cor­ner braces

• Four 3/8-inch self-ad­he­sive vinyl bumpers

• 1/8×32×38-inch tem­pered glass sheet with rounded cor­ners

Step 1 Cut the fol­low­ing pieces from the studs: four legs (13¾ inches long), two long stretch­ers (27¾ inches), two short stretch­ers (23½ inches), one long spacer block (8¾ inches), one short spacer block (7 inches).

Step 2 Us­ing two legs and two long stretch­ers, cre­ate two L shapes mea­sur­ing 27¾×17¼ inches. Us­ing two legs and two short stretch­ers, cre­ate two L shapes that mea­sure 23½×17¼ inches. Glue and clamp each L so the out­side edges are flush and the in­side an­gle is square (A).

Step 3 Re­in­force each L as­sem­bly with 2½-inch wood screws, which later will be cov­ered by pieces of dowel.

Drill holes for the dowel plugs with the ½-inch drill bit. Cen­ter the holes on the out­side edge of the glued joint. Mea­sure and mark 7/8 inch and 23/8 inch in from the out­side edge. Drill 3/8-inch deep holes at the marked spots (B). TIP: Wrap painters tape 3/8 inch from the tip of the drill bit so you don’t drill too deep. Us­ing the 7/64-inch bit, drill pi­lot holes through the cen­ter of th­ese holes. Keep your drill bit as straight as pos­si­ble. Drive 2½-inch screws through the pi­lot holes. Re­peat on all L as­sem­blies.

Step 4 At­tach the four Ls to each other us­ing the spacer blocks to en­sure they are evenly in­set. Clamp the long spacer block to one long L with two clamps, mak­ing sure the block cov­ers the joint and all edges are flush. Add glue to the end of a short L. Clamp the short L against the end of the spacer block with one clamp with the glue against the long L (C). Re­move spacer blocks and clamps once glue is dry. Re­peat in­struc­tions from Step 3—drill plug holes, pi­lot holes, and drive screws— to se­cure the glued joint where the short L meets the long L. Re­peat with the re­main­ing two legs and the short spacer block, re­vers­ing the long and short Ls, start­ing with the spacer block clamped to the short L and adding the long L to the short L. Re­peat to join the two as­sem­blies (D). Sand all sur­faces and joints smooth.

Step 5 Cut ¼-inch-long plugs from the dowel. You will need 16. Spray-paint one end of each black, and let dry. Dab a small amount of glue on the un­painted end of the dowel and twist into the hole. Gen­tly tap the dow­els flush us­ing a ham­mer and scrap piece of wood (E). Be care­ful to not set the dowel deeper than the sur­face. Re­peat for all screw holes.

Step 6 Wipe a coat of Dan­ish oil onto the en­tire ta­ble base. Al­low to dry for 5 min­utes, and then wipe off any­where the oil pooled. Re­peat. Paint the cor­ner L braces and their screws black, and let dry. At­tach the braces on both sides of the leg joints on each L. Flip the as­sem­bly over, place bumper pads on the top of the leg as­sem­bly, and add the glass top.

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