Persian style crispy rice

This rice — a version of tahchin, the classic saffron-scented, tahdig-topped Persian rice — holds the title for Kismet’s most popular dish. (It’s worth noting that though it’s often confused, the tahdig is just the coveted crunchy part, while the whole dish is known as tahchin.) We started developing this version in 2013 when we worked together at Glasserie, but we didn’t really find our footing with it until we were rounding the corner to opening day at Kismet, years later. We needed a version that could be made to order and portioned individually, with an eye-catching, perfectly bronzed dome. As for the oozy egg yolk addition, well, we never want to miss out on the opportunity to put on a little show.

This is our interpretation, and not a strictly traditional representation, of Persian rice. It is a celebration of our love of crispy (or scorched) rice across many cuisines, Persian rice being the most direct reference. There are a number of wonderful, more traditional tahchin/ tahdig recipes out there; we particularly want to steer you in Najmieh Batmanglij’s direction. Her cookbooks (especially Food of Life, $55, bookshop.org, and New Food of Life, $45, thriftbooks.com) are tomes of Persian cooking and up there with the greatest cookbooks of all time.

One last important detail for success with this version is the pan. Invest in an eightinch nonstick pan that has a lid with a hole to let the steam escape, which is crucial for achieving the most shatteringly crisp crust, and that’s what we’re looking for.

SERVES 4 TO 6

FOR THE RICE

1¾ Cups basmati rice 3 Tablespoons, plus ¼ teaspoon, kosher salt, divided 1 Bay leaf

2 Teaspoons annatto seeds, tied in cheesecloth (or a well-sealed tea ball)

½ Cup pumpkin seeds 1 Teaspoon olive oil

½ Cup dried currants 2 Tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 Teaspoons sugar

FOR THE CRUST MIXTURE

FOR SERVING

1 Tablespoon Greek yogurt 4 Tablespoons room-temperature butter, divided 2 Teaspoons rice flour

3 Egg yolks

MAKE THE RICE

● Fill a medium bowl with water. Add the rice and, using your hand, swirl to release the starch. Pour through a fine-mesh sieve and rinse thoroughly with water.

● In a large pot over high heat, combine 8 cups of water, 3 tablespoons of the salt, the bay leaf, and annatto seeds, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, add the rice, and stir to keep it from sticking to the bottom. Cook for 7 minutes, while stirring occasionally.

● Drain the parcooked rice in a fine-mesh sieve and spread it out onto a baking sheet. Cool in the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes (or in the fridge for 45 minutes).

● Preheat the oven to 300 F. ● While the rice is cooling, on a baking sheet, toss together the pumpkin seeds, olive oil, and remaining ¼ teaspoon of salt. Toast in the oven for 30 minutes, until lightly fragrant. ● At the same time, in a small pot, combine the currants, vinegar, and sugar, and cook over medium heat, stirring until syrupy, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and let sit, covered, to fully absorb.

MAKE THE CRUST MIXTURE

● In a small bowl, combine the Greek yogurt, 2 tablespoons of the softened butter, rice flour, and 2 teaspoons of water, and stir thoroughly into a sticky paste. Add 1¼ cups of cooked rice to the yogurt mixture and mix to coat evenly.

● Pour the rice crust mixture onto the bottom of an 8-inch nonstick pan. Using the back of a spoon, pull it toward the edges of the pan. Scrape the rice mixture up the sides to flatten against the entire perimeter before patting down the center. (It helps to have a little bowl of hot water handy — a quick dip helps to keep the rice from sticking to your spoon.)

● Gently spread half of the remaining rice on top of the formed crust. Scatter half of both the pumpkin seeds and currants over that layer (set the remaining pumpkin seeds and currants aside). Top with the remaining rice. Place the pan over medium heat, gently place the pan’s lid over the rice, and cook for 5 minutes. (Note: If your lid is firmly pressed into the rice, you’ll run the risk of having the crispy bits stick to the edges and break your perfect crust.) ● In a small pan, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. After the rice has been cooking for 5 minutes, remove the lid and spoon the melted butter around the perimeter of the pan. Gently place the lid back onto the rice, reduce the heat to medium low, and cook for 25 minutes longer, rotating the pan occasionally for even browning.

DROP THE EGGS

● Uncover and use a spoon to make a divot in the center of the rice. Gently drop the yolks into the hole and ever so gently cover them up with rice. Turn off the heat, invert a serving plate over the pan, and flip the rice out onto it. ● Top with the remaining currants and pumpkin seeds, and serve immediately.