Travel Bites

A Tour of Heritage, History and Culture

BY CAT TROIANO

The sights, sounds and tastes of the French Quarter in New Orleans.

Steeped with history and culture, the French Quarter is the oldest neighborhood in the city of New Orleans. Known for restaurants that offer savory and aromatic Creole fare, jazz and zydeo emanating through the doors of nightclubs, and the old world charm of elaborate iron scrollwork balconies, the French Quarter tantalizes the visitor’s senses.

Originally a French colony, Louisiana was then ruled by the Spanish until possession transferred to the United States with the signing of the Louisiana Purchase in 1803. The Creoles descended from colonial settlers in Louisiana, their French and Spanish ancestors greatly influencing the various facets of New Orleans culture including cuisine, architecture and music. These cultural influences remain evident today, particularly in the French Quarter.

The perfect opening to a day in the French Quarter is the indulgence of courtyard dining. Welcomed by a splashing fountain, guests are ushered into a courtyard jazz brunch at The Court of Three Sisters. Brunch offers an extensive assortment of authentic Creole fare, accompanied by the relaxing background music of a jazz trio.

Daytime sightseeing offers vast opportunities. Horse-drawn carriages await to take vacationers on a leisurely tour of the Quarter, the driver pointing out various landmarks that beckon further exploration. The famous Jackson Square, a park displaying an equestrian statue of Andrew Jackson in the foreground of the Saint Louis Cathedral, defines the center of the French Quarter. Gardens line the center of the square, its perimeter alive with street musicians, mime performers, tarot card readers, artists and fortunetellers. The Saint Louis Cathedral is flanked by additional historic landmarks on each side, both identical in architecture: The Cabildo and The Presbytere. The Cabildo, erected in 1795-1799, was once the city hall where the Louisiana Purchase was signed. Today it is

a museum featuring artifacts of bygone eras, including an auction block used during slavery, a Civil War surgeon’s chest and Napoleon’s death mask. The Presbytere, originally constructed in 1791 as a residence for clergymen and then subsequently used as a courthouse, is now a museum as well, offering several exhibits including an ongoing Mardi Gras feature. This Carnival exhibit examines the origins and pageantry of Mardi Gras through displays of costumes, floats and other memorabilia.

A short stroll from Jackson Square leads to Riverwalk, a lengthy boardwalk that offers breezy views of the Mississippi River along one side; a shopping mall spans the other. Within the mall, numerous shops and boutiques provide tempting opportunities to load up on souvenirs, a jazz combo strolls along and the shopper can take a load off while indulging in a seafood po’boy sandwich for lunch.

Visitors are guided by the scents of chicory coffee and beignets riding on the breeze from the direction of the famous Café du Monde. Reminiscent of the outdoor Paris café, tourists can take a break from sightseeing and indulge in a café au lait with beignets, the deepfried dough pastries dusted with powdered sugar.

Architecture should not be overlooked. The pastel-hued stucco and elaborate iron scrollwork that wraps around corner balconies throughout the city showcase the Spanish influence, as many of the buildings were constructed during the era of Spanish rule.

Guided tours through the oldest cemeteries provide intriguing insight to unusual local burial methods, tales of voodoo practices and their West African origin and Catholic influences, and a visit to the tomb of Marie Laveau, the voodoo queen herself. The decaying above ground stone mausoleums comprise cities of the dead, offering centuries of haunted lore and legend still recounted to this day.

As the sun goes down, attention turns to dining and entertainment. Restaurants abound, featuring traditional Spanish and French influenced Creole dishes as well as Cajun delicacies that have made their way into the city from the bayou country. Chefs such as Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse have spurred the popularity of these foods. Lagasse’s NOLA, Prudhomme’s K-Paul, Brennan’s and Arnaud offer such Creole culinary delights as jambalaya, gumbo, crawfish etouffe, oysters Rockefeller and smothered chops or steaks. The traditional dessert of bananas Foster is prepared table-side with flare and artistry. Another dining option is offered aboard the Natchez, a riverboat that provides jazz dinner cruises along the Mississippi River.

Jazz clubs invite tourists to experience the sultry notes of a solo saxophone, the lively harmonics of a brass trio or the mesmerizing tunes of a jazz combo. New Orleans is the birthplace of jazz, the original form of the genre referred to as Dixieland, which took on influences from marching bands, blues and polyphonic improvisation. Louis Armstrong is the most celebrated traditional jazz musician of all time. Older than jazz itself is the musical style of zydeco, a rapid tempo Creole blend incorporating such instruments as rubboards, fiddles and accordions.

The most famous street in the French Quarter is Bourbon Street, a bar and club lined strip offering unlimited opportunity for indulging in boozy libations. No visit to the French Quarter is complete without imbibing a Hurricane, the crimsoncolored fruity cocktail invented at the Bourbon Street pub of Pat O’Brien’s. Unlike most of the United States, New Orleans and its French Quarter is one of the few areas in which it is legal to consume alcohol from open containers on the street. After dark, Bourbon Street therefore becomes the scene of social camaraderie.

Other attractions just outside the French Quarter limits include the world-famous Commander’s Palace restaurant, where celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse’s career was launched, the Audubon Zoo and Audubon Aquarium. Beer aficionados will revel in a trip to Jax Brewery. Interesting remote tours that depart from the French Quarter include a tour of the picturesque Louisiana swamp swathed with Spanish moss drapery and alive with alligators, and tours of the Oak Alley and Laura Creole plantations from the 1800s.

New Orleans’ French Quarter has offerings of enjoyment for everyone, from the devoted gastronome to the music enthusiast to the history buff. The French Quarter is alive and well after Hurricane Katrina, its culture and hospitality awaits to bid a warm welcome to all.