WORLD OF OYSTERS
Next morning, we drive to Fernwood on PEI’s south coast to meet Brian Lewis, co-owner of Future Seafoods, to learn more about oysters. “Welcome to beautiful Bedeque Bay,” says Brian, as we hop aboard a traditional oyster dory from an idyllic beach setting. Out on the water’s mirror–like surface, Brian expertly demonstrates the art of oyster tonging before we have a go ourselves.
Using his two oyster tongs in a scissor-like action on the estuary bed, he digs up a catch and places it on a small platform attached to the boat. Among the weeds and mud are the jewels of PEI’s seafood crown. A typical oyster will take three years to mature, and any that don’t make the size limit go back in the water to grow some more. Brian quickly shucks an oyster and savors its briny flavor. “What a finish on that one - it’s like tasting the ocean,” he proclaims, tossing the empty shell back into the oyster bed. Later we head back to the plant, where we get to see how oysters are graded and packaged, following the process all the way to the point where the mollusks are loaded onto the back of a truck to be shipped to places like Boston.
Post-induction into the world of oysters, we cross to the island’s north coast. Standing proudly near the National Park, and overlooking the beach named after it, is the historic mansion of Dalvay By the Sea, which dates back to 1895. Easily the most stunning place to stay on the north shore, it drew much attention, when William and Kate, the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, visited as part of their royal tour to Canada in July 2011, where among other activities, they sampled the chef ’s seafood dishes.
On our last day in PEI, we followed the scenic North Cape Coastal Drive to the historic West Point Lighthouse, our accommodation for the night. Built in 1875, sections of the former lighthouse keepers’ quarters have been converted into an elegant 13-room inn - the first of its kind in Canada.
After visiting the museum’s extensive collection of artifacts and climbing the tower for breathtaking views, we sit down on our own private deck for a gentle respite. With the sound of waves crashing in the Northumberland Strait all around us, we uncork a bottle of white wine and shuck a few oysters in a fitting tribute to Canada’s Prince Edward Island, a true seafood paradise.