East Bay Times

My Gazan family faces starvation at Ramadan

- By Laila El-Haddad Laila El-Haddad is a Marylandba­sed writer and co-author of “The Gaza Kitchen: A Palestinia­n Culinary Journey.” ©2024 Los Angeles Times. Distribute­d by Tribune Content Agency.

Ordinarily, the days leading up to Ramadan, the holy month when Muslims give up food and drink from dawn to dusk, are exuberant. My younger children and I would prepare “iftar jars” and food baskets with Ramadan staples, such as dates, nuts and apricot paste, to hand out to neighbors. We'd decorate the house and send invitation­s for iftar, the meal when we break our fast, to friends and family.

But this year, as Palestinia­ns with family in Gaza, our enthusiasm has been overshadow­ed with overwhelmi­ng grief. Ramadan began this week. No decoration­s have made their way out of the basement and no baskets have been distribute­d.

Israel's war on Gaza, which the Internatio­nal Court of Justice and a U.S. federal court found could amount to genocide, has claimed the lives of my aunt, my three adult cousins and their families. It has also killed more than 100 members of my extended family along with more than 30,000 other Palestinia­ns. I cannot begin to imagine what Ramadan will look like for them, as United Nations officials have said that more than half a million people in Gaza are a “step away” from famine, and Israel blocks the entry of aid trucks.

Thirteen years ago, while researchin­g for my cookbook on Gaza cuisine, I observed Ramadan there. There was a heat wave amid power outages, the result of an Israeli attack on Gaza's power plant and restrictio­ns on diesel fuel.

Despite it all, the air then was electric with excitement. Qatayif vendors popped up just around sunset, flipping and selling the traditiona­l Ramadan pancakes ready to stuff with nuts, milk pudding or cheese. Children lighted the dark skyline with their fawanees, or lanterns, and men and women headed to the mosque for the evening taraweeh prayers, a fixture of the holy month. There will be none of that this year.

This Ramadan, I oscillate between a profound sense of loss and sadness and a feeling of urgency and obligation to do anything I can to help my family, to organize, to speak out. Sometimes, I feel broken and empty inside, as we face a cruel reality in which even our best efforts cannot seem to stop the slaughter, and all I can muster the energy to do is cry.

Nowhere left to hide

In WhatsApp messages, my Gaza relatives tell me they have nothing left to go back to, no mosques to go pray in, no electricit­y, no fuel to cook with. What little food they find is purchased at incredibly inflated prices, cooked in a makeshift cob oven or in tin ovens, using wood or charcoal.

Eleven of my family members, including my uncle who has a heart condition, are currently in Rafah after fleeing their Gaza City home in the north. Now, they have nowhere left to hide, as they await an imminent Israeli invasion into Rafah.

Dozens of other family members remain in Gaza City, cut off from those in the south, from the trickle of humanitari­an aid entering the territory. They face looming starvation. We learn only whether they are alive or not through the occasional audio note. One cousin recently told me he hadn't tasted bread, fruit, vegetables or meat in months, surviving instead on hard-to-find canned food.

Despite all this, my cousins say they plan to honor Ramadan however they can, and to prepare traditiona­l Palestinia­n meals for iftar, improvisin­g with whatever ingredient­s are on hand. Stews with powdered chicken bouillon instead of protein. Wild greens and tinned meat or tuna if they are lucky. Animal feed instead of flour for making bread. For my relatives, observing Ramadan and cooking also serve as acts of resistance and sumood, or steadfastn­ess, against a dehumanizi­ng war.

Back in Maryland, I'm left wondering how to talk to my children about what is happening, as we gather around our iftar tables. What meaning do we find in Ramadan given the situation back home? The conversati­ons will be difficult, but necessary. And from these points of discomfort and angst, I hope we grow spirituall­y and mentally.

Murderous catastroph­e

I am frustrated with the Biden administra­tion's unwavering diplomatic, financial and military support of Israel's bombardmen­t, which has systematic­ally destroyed much of Gaza including its agricultur­al land and assets, and its local food systems. Human Rights Watch has said the Israeli government is employing starvation as a “weapon of war.” Instead of pressuring Israel to open land crossings, the United States has airdropped food aid into Gaza and plans to build a temporary port to bring in humanitari­an assistance. These efforts are woefully insufficie­nt and amount to a public relations stunt as our government continues to provide bombs and arms to Israel.

During Ramadan, feeding a fasting person or hungry people is highly recommende­d. Living in the United States, all I can do is send money to friends in Gaza who have set up neighborho­od soup kitchens, preparing simple vegetarian stews using foraged wild greens like common mallow, or khobeiza.

In the Quran, patience is described as jameel, which means beautiful. Patience, perseveran­ce and prayer are all we have left now. But that doesn't make the hardship any easier.

In some ways, the horrific war has forced us to approach Ramadan in the spirit it was intended. To focus not on satisfying the self, but on purifying it of worldly desires, and in doing what we can to change an injustice around us.

These are the messages we will likely be sharing around our iftar tables this Ramadan, as our family struggles to find strength to make sense of the murderous catastroph­e unfolding before our eyes.

`I oscillate between a profound sense of loss and sadness and a feeling of urgency and obligation to do anything I can to help my family, to organize, to speak out.'

 ?? FATIMA SHBAIR/ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? Palestinia­ns line up on Feb. 23for free food in Rafah, Gaza Strip. Many families are struggling with hunger.
FATIMA SHBAIR/ASSOCIATED PRESS Palestinia­ns line up on Feb. 23for free food in Rafah, Gaza Strip. Many families are struggling with hunger.

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