East Bay Times

Voyage Bar, San Anselmo

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The fireplace is glowing and the atmosphere buzzing on a recent Saturday night at this wine and low-ABV cocktail bar, which opened in December with a menu that specialize­s in natural wines with sophistica­ted food to match.

Wall-to-wall windows are a highlight inside the iconic Cheda Building, circa 1911. The building became San Anselmo's first movie theater in 1914 and later, a series of businesses — drugstores, a lounge, an office — before its final metamorpho­sis. Today, it's Voyage Bar, decked out with stylish reclaimed Douglas fir and redwood accents and vintage light fixtures.

The bar is run by David and Margaret Ruiz, who also own Fairfax's Stillwater, alongside Dylan Jones and Matty Conway. Bites are curated by Stillwater chef Cameron Meyers, whose hearty grazing menu includes options like locally-sourced beef tartare ($17), confit pork belly ($24) and Bohemian Creamery cheese. The bar is also home to an analog vinyl music collection. There's live music on Wednesday evenings.

WHAT TO TRY >> The menu rotates, but the roasted root veggies dish ($15) is a satisfying plate to share. You and your companions may find yourselves debating the difference between Romesco and Romanesco — the dish comes with both. (Tip: Romesco is a Spanish tomatobase­d sauce. Romanesco is a geometrica­lly funky cauliflowe­r variant.) Try the COS “Nero di Lupo,” a biodynamic red from Sicily, which is mellow and light.

DETAILS >> Open from 5 to 10 p.m. daily except Tuesdays at 500 San Anselmo Ave. in San Anselmo; voyagebar.com.

 ?? KATE BRADSHAW — STAFF ?? Wine and shared plates, like a roasted root vegetables dish — featuring both Romesco sauce and Romanesco cauliflowe­r — are among the menu items at Voyage Bar in San Anselmo.
KATE BRADSHAW — STAFF Wine and shared plates, like a roasted root vegetables dish — featuring both Romesco sauce and Romanesco cauliflowe­r — are among the menu items at Voyage Bar in San Anselmo.

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