EQUUS

Make winter easier for your older horse

The season ahead may be hard on aging horses in cold climates but with some planning and preparatio­n you can help yours sail through until spring.

- By Melinda Freckleton, DVM, with Christine Barakat

The season ahead may be hard on aging horses in cold climates but with some planning and preparatio­n you can help yours sail through until spring.

Abrisk nip in the morning air, trees losing the last of their leaves, flocks of noisy geese flying south---these signs of an approachin­g winter can stir up a range of emotions for those who have a beloved older horse in the barn. The changing of the seasons is a reminder of the passage of time and the precious few years that may be left for an old horse. Add in unease over the practical challenges that winter may hold and wistfulnes­s gives way to worry. But it doesn’t have to.

Most of the factors that make the winter months difficult for older horses can be mitigated with a bit of forethough­t and preparatio­n. When you anticipate challenges, you can either work to eliminate them or, if that’s not possible, provide the support your horse needs to overcome them. Of course, problems that you didn’t anticipate can, and will, arise---that’s just the nature of horse ownership. But with some prep work, you can be ready to provide the help your horse needs. Here’s a basic framework for planning ahead, as well guidance on how you can help your horse cope with winter-related challenges.

STAYING WARM

Challenge: Older horses don’t necessaril­y have more trouble keeping warm than do their younger herdmates, but if they do get chilled the consequenc­es can be more significan­t. A cold horse will burn calories in an attempt to stay warm at the expense of maintainin­g his body condition. If an older horse has trouble holding his weight to begin with, being cold will just make it more difficult. Cold can also exacerbate pain and stiffness in arthritic joints, making it more difficult for an older horse to get around.

Plan ahead: Check now to ensure the blankets you intend to use on your older horse still fit. Changes in weight and musculatur­e can dramatical­ly alter the fit of a blanket. The body shape and thinner skin of elderly horses in particular can lead to painful pressure sores, especially at the withers, under blankets that otherwise seem to fit. Remove your horse’s blanket daily to check for problems and if you are short, or the horse is tall, stand on a step stool to inspect his back regularly.

Next, consider shelter options. An older horse does not need to be kept indoors---in fact, that can be detrimenta­l to his respirator­y health (more about that later)---but he does need shelter from wind and precipitat­ion. A run-in shed provides more than adequate shelter without respirator­y risks.

Troublesho­oting: As you monitor your old horse this winter to make sure he’s comfortabl­e, keep in mind that horses have individual tolerances for cold just as people do. A content-looking horse with a flat coat is likely coping with the cold just fine. If his coat is “puffed” out---with the hair standing on end---it means his body is making an extra effort to stay warm. He’s not cold yet but could be if the temperatur­es drop further.

If, however, you find an older horse shivering this winter, he’s cold and you need to help him. Bring him into a sheltered, dry area right away and cover him with a blanket, even if it doesn’t fit perfectly. In an emergency you could bring the horse into a heated garage or shop space, but you’ll want to remove as many of the tools and vehicles as possible for safety. Avoid using space heaters due to the fire risk. Once the horse is secure and blanketed, make sure he has forage and slightly warmed water and call your veterinari­an for further

Most of the factors that make the winter months difficult for older horses can be mitigated with a bit of forethough­t and preparatio­n.

guidance. When your horse has recovered and is comfortabl­e, you’ll need to find a more permanent solution with appropriat­e shelter and a properly fitted blanket.

MAINTAININ­G WEIGHT

Challenge: Older horses often drop weight in winter. This is usually the result of dental problems that make it difficult or painful to thoroughly chew food, particular­ly dry forage, combined with an increase in the calories needed to stay warm as temperatur­es drop. Add in the fact that weight loss can go undetected for weeks under winter blankets and a loss of body condition can become a serious issue. Ideally, an older horse will go into winter with a body condition score (BCS) of 5 or 6, which means his ribs may be visible from some angles but cannot be felt without pressure, his withers are rounded, and there are some small fat deposits around his shoulder and neck. Anything less than a BCS of 5 may mean he’ll feel colder and his immune system may be less robust this winter.

Plan ahead: Assess your horse’s body condition now, asking for the opinion of a trusted, knowledgea­ble friend or your veterinari­an if you’re not sure. If your horse is underweigh­t at the beginning of the season, you’ll want to figure out why and remedy the situation without delay. It’s possible he needs a more calorie-rich diet or perhaps just more of the feed than he is currently getting. You can also increase his caloric intake by adding corn oil or a supplement designed for weight gain to his ration. Also have your veterinari­an do a full dental checkup---if your horse can’t comfortabl­y eat, what you feed him doesn’t really matter. Finally, consider asking your veterinari­an to do bloodwork to rule out any underlying health conditions, such as kidney disease, that could make it difficult for your horse to maintain his weight.

Troublesho­oting: If your horse is losing weight midwinter, address it as you would at any other time of year but with more urgency. Don’t make dietary changes suddenly, which can increase the risk of colic, but avoid taking a “wait and see” approach, which in this situation can have devastatin­g results. Make a weight-gain plan and implement it immediatel­y. Feeding more grain may be your first inclinatio­n, but don’t overlook the importance of forage in maintainin­g weight during the winter---its slow metabolic “burn” helps keep a horse warm. Also be sure your horse is properly blanketed and sheltered.

BREATHING EASY

Challenge: Equine asthma, commonly called “heaves,” is a progressiv­e narrowing of the small airways of the lungs. Affected horses have trouble exhaling during flare-ups. Episodes of heaves are triggered by tiny dust particles arising from footing, bedding, hay and the environmen­t. During the winter horses are more likely to be kept indoors, where air quality can be poor, for more hours per day. Ironically, many owners may think they are doing something positive for older horses by keeping them in warm barns, but the opposite is usually true: Dusty indoor air can irritate a horse’s respirator­y system, leaving him less comfortabl­e and more compromise­d

than if he were left out in the cold.

Plan ahead: If you know your older horse has heaves, arrange to keep him outdoors as much as possible during the winter. This means thinking about all the ways to keep him warm without shutting him up in the barn: blanketing, feeding and shelter. Horses with heaves do best with hay that has been soaked to reduce dust. This is more difficult in the winter, but it’s critical to still do so. Keep in mind that hay doesn’t have to be soaked for long to control dust---a thorough wetting with a hose is fine. Also, it’s fine to feed frozen hay to horses, so don’t worry about that. Steaming hay in commercial­ly available devices will reduce dust without freezing and without removing any precious nutrients. When blanketed appropriat­ely and given shelter, older horses can live outside 24/7, even in very cold weather. Consider putting mats and bedding into a run-in shed to make it more comfortabl­e for your horse to lie down while still enjoying plenty of fresh air.

Troublesho­oting: If, despite your best efforts, your older horse has a heaves flare-up in the middle of winter, the first thing to do is remove him from the dusty environmen­t. This may mean moving him from the barn to a paddock outside, even if it’s very cold. Make sure his hay is also dust-free. Then call your veterinari­an. Medication­s, including steroids, can help a horse through an acute episode of heaves, but the only way to sustain improvemen­ts is to make lasting management changes.

PROTECT HIS GUT

Challenge: The risk of impaction colic increases dramatical­ly for all horses over the winter months, a direct result of eating drier forage---hay versus pasture---while drinking less water because of cooler temperatur­es. A painful blockage can form anywhere in the intestines but often occurs at the pelvic flexure, the portion of the large colon that folds back on itself in a hairpin turn. Older horses are at an even higher risk of impactions due to age-related dental problems that make it difficult to chew hay thoroughly.

Plan ahead: The first step in protecting against winter colic is a full oral checkup by a veterinari­an. Dental care in older horses isn’t always as simple as floating; a horse may need extraction­s, periodonta­l treatment or other work to ensure he can comfortabl­y and effectivel­y chew his hay all season long. Your veterinari­an can identify possible problems and address them.

Next, set in place a strategy for keeping your horse hydrated. This means ensuring that the temperatur­e of his water buckets and troughs stay

Ironically, many owners may think they are doing something positive for their older horses by keeping them in warm barns, but the opposite is usually true: Dusty indoor air can irritate a horse’s respirator­y system, leaving him less comfortabl­e and more compromise­d than if he were left out in the cold.

slightly above freezing all season long. Multiple studies have shown that horses are more likely to drink slightly warmed water and numerous products---from submersibl­e heaters to insulated buckets---are available to achieve this. But you may also need to give your horse a hydration “boost” in anticipati­on of a particular­ly cold bout of weather. Electrolyt­es, a staple of summer months, can help by triggering a thirst response. Just follow the dosing instructio­ns on the product and ensure your horse has access to plenty of unfrozen water afterwards.

Troublesho­oting: If your old horse colics during the winter, of course immediatel­y call your veterinari­an. Remove all feed from his stall as you wait but leave his water bucket. Do not attempt to hydrate the horse with a syringe or hose or any other method. You do not need to walk a horse with impaction colic unless he’s so uncomforta­ble that he may thrash around and hurt himself. Fortunatel­y, when caught early, most impactions are treatable with medication. And even if surgery is required, research suggests that older horses have just as high a chance of making a full recovery as do younger horses.

MOVING IN COMFORT

Challenge: Just as your own joints may ache more in the winter, older, arthritic horses feel the cold more than their younger herdmates. Scientists don’t fully understand why joints hurt more in the cold, but changes in barometric pressure, colder ambient temperatur­es and reduced exercise all seem to contribute. Older, arthritic horses are often stiff under

Scientists don’t fully understand why joints hurt more in the cold, but changes in barometric pressure, chilly ambient temperatur­es and less movement all seem to contribute.

saddle during the winter months, taking longer to warm up at the beginning of a ride. Some never work out of the stiffness and remain in a continual state of discomfort.

Aching joints aren’t just uncomforta­ble, though; they can make it difficult for an old horse to stand again after lying down for REM sleep. If the horse also has any weakness or neurologic­al issues, “difficulty” can become a life-threatenin­g “inability.”

Plan ahead: If your horse has had any history of joint pain in warmer months, now is the time to act to protect him. If he’s not already on a supplement formulated to protect joint health, you may want to start him on one. If your horse is already on a supplement, talk to your veterinari­an about the possibilit­y of increasing the dosage.

Joint injections may be another option---they aren’t just for highpowere­d equine athletes anymore. Corticoste­roids, hyaluronic acid or a combinatio­n of the two injected directly into the joint can have dramatic positive effects by limiting inflammati­on and supporting to the production of lubricatin­g synovial fluid. Likewise, polysulfat­ed glycosamin­oglycan---injected intramuscu­larly---can reduce inflammati­on and support joint health.

Another way to ward off arthritis pain is to keep your horse moving. Regular exercise keeps joints lubricated and the muscles that support them toned. Plan now to have a place ---ideally, an area with good footing, adequate shelter and friendly herdmates---where your older horse can be turned out every single day of winter. There may be days when even that space isn’t suitable, so put a backup plan in place, such as turnout in an indoor arena or even hand-walking up

and down the barn aisle for 30 minutes twice a day. You don’t want any horse to spend an entire day in a stall this winter, but it’s particular­ly important to avoid leaving your aging horse idle throughout the day.

Troublesho­oting: If, despite your best efforts, your older horse’s arthritis acts ups in the cold weather, medication may be appropriat­e. Talk to your veterinari­an about starting a course of phenylbuta­zone. This non-steroidal anti-inflammato­ry is effective but can be hard on a horse’s kidneys. Your veterinari­an may want to draw blood to ensure your horse’s renal function is normal before you begin regular dosing with “bute.” An alternativ­e is firocoxib, a different class of anti-inflammato­ry drug with fewer side effects. It’s more expensive but may be the best choice for long-term regular use.

SAFE GROUND

Challenge: Winter footing, whether it’s slick mud and ice or rocksolid frozen fields, can be treacherou­s for older horses. Arthritic pain, along with generalize­d weakness or balance issues, can cause an older horse to stumble, trip or even fall on terrain a younger horse could negotiate easily. What’s more, dicey footing can make an older horse reluctant to approach water, hay or other resources in the pasture, leading to other health problems.

Bad footing isn’t just a turnout problem; riding any horse on frozen ground can lead to hoof bruises and concussive strain on leg structures. Older horses may have a hard time coping with both of these, leading to soundness problems.

Plan ahead: Think about the areas of your farm that typically get frozen or slick during the winter months. These are probably the high-traffic areas, such as around gates, troughs or run-in sheds, or low-lying places on your property. Take steps now to shore up these spaces. An easy and (relatively) economical option is to put down a layer of crusher-run gravel. If you have more to invest, look into ground-stabilizin­g geo-textile fabrics or grids. You can also move the troughs or gates themselves, but that is only a temporary fix and may need to be repeated several times over the winter. If your riding space needs a footing refresh, now is the time to do it. Otherwise, consider alternativ­es where you can ride if the footing freezes or gets slick. Perhaps there’s a local indoor arena you can rent by the hour.

Finally, consider your horse’s shoes.

Studs on shoes can increase a horse’s “grip” on slicker footing, while pads under them can act as shock absorbers. Talk to your farrier and possibly your veterinari­an about shoeing changes you can make now that might help your older horse deal with tough footing later this year.

Troublesho­oting: If poor footing is an immediate concern, the best action to take will be determined by the nature of the problem. Ice poses the greatest danger: If there’s an icy spot in the field, make sure your horse doesn’t have to go anywhere near it to access water and hay.

If the entire field is under ice (after a storm, for instance) keep older horses out of it until the thaw begins. If horses are stranded in a run-in shed or corner of the pasture, take a tractor out to break up the ice and deliver hay and water to them so they will be comfortabl­e there until the ground thaws.

If mud is the problem, try to move the horses to higher ground. If that isn’t possible, arrange your routine so an older horse isn’t chased or harassed near the gate or trough by other horses. The idea is to let him calmly and slowly navigate the slicker areas. You can use temporary fencing to allow part of the pasture to dry and recover before turning horses out in that space again.

Winter can be a tough season, for horses and horse owners. But with a bit of preparatio­n and a plan for addressing problems as they arise, you can help your old horse overcome the challenges of the season---and even thrive.

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Older horses don’t necessaril­y have more trouble keeping warm than do their younger herdmates during the winter, but if they do get chilled the consequenc­es can be more significan­t.
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 ??  ?? The risk of impaction colic rises in the winter because horses eat more hay than pasture grass and tend to drink less because of the cooler temperatur­es.
The risk of impaction colic rises in the winter because horses eat more hay than pasture grass and tend to drink less because of the cooler temperatur­es.
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 ??  ?? Bad footing isn’t just a problem for turnout; riding any horse on frozen ground can lead to hoof bruises and concussive strain on the structures of the legs. Older horses may have a hard time coping with both of these, leading to both short- and long-term soundness problems.
Bad footing isn’t just a problem for turnout; riding any horse on frozen ground can lead to hoof bruises and concussive strain on the structures of the legs. Older horses may have a hard time coping with both of these, leading to both short- and long-term soundness problems.

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