Esquire (USA)

But Some Fancy Bars are Also Serving . . . Jell-O Shots?

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The table next to me at Silver Lyan in Washington, D. C., the kind of drinking den that serves $23 martinis, had ordered what looked like a fruit basket. On closer examinatio­n, it was a trompe l’oeil. They were Jell-O shots in rinds of lemon, orange, grapefruit. In the months after that, I started seeing Jell-O shots in the least likely places. At White Limozeen in Nashville, there were Jell-O shots with Champagne. At Marian’s in New York, I scooped a gelatinize­d negroni out of a coupe. And when the classic SoHo bar Milady’s reopens under the co-ownership of Julie Reiner, also a co-owner of one of the stalwarts of classic cocktailin­g, Brooklyn’s Clover Club, the menu will have a section devoted to Jell-O shots, including a Blue Hawaiian version (shown right). What does this all mean? After some two decades of taking cocktails seriously, maybe we should all loosen up a bit. And have a tasty time doing it.

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