CRACK­LING PORK LOIN

Food & Wine - - ’TIS THE SEASONING -

Acrispy, lac­quered bone-in rack of pork is a show­stop­ping roast. It re­quires a long cook time to fully ren­der the fat cap and cook the thick cut all the way through—a stint that can dry it out or toughen it if you’re not care­ful. Pre-sea­son­ing the pork in wet brine laced with kombu and bonito flakes helps to keep the meat—es­pe­cially the lean loin found at the cen­ter of the cut—suc­cu­lent and ten­der, while lend­ing a del­i­cate, smoky fla­vor to the pork. Rest­ing the meat fully be­fore a fi­nal miso glaze and rip­ping-hot oven sear de­liv­ers su­per-juicy meat and a siz­zling sea­soned crust.

AC­TIVE 1 HR 30 MIN; TO­TAL 19 HR 45 MIN; SERVES 6 BRINE

6 cups wa­ter 2 sheets kombu (about 1 oz.) 2 cups packed bonito flakes (about 1 oz.) 1/2 cup Di­a­mond Crys­tal kosher salt 4 cups ice 1/4 cup honey 2 Tbsp. cracked black pep­per 1 Tbsp. rice wine vine­gar 1 (5-lb.) bone-in 6-rib pork loin roast, frenched, fat cap scored

GLAZE

2 Tbsp. white miso 2 Tbsp. honey 1 Tbsp. rice wine vine­gar

1. Make the brine: Com­bine wa­ter and kombu in a large pot, and let stand un­til kombu is pli­able, about 15 min­utes. Cook over high just un­til steam­ing, about 8 min­utes. Re­move from heat. Stir in bonito flakes and salt; let stand 15 min­utes. Pour through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a non­re­ac­tive food-safe con­tainer large enough to hold pork; dis­card solids. Add ice, honey, black pep­per, and vine­gar, and stir un­til ice melts and brine is cool. Add pork, cover, and chill at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours.

2. Re­move pork from brine; dis­card brine. Pat pork dry with pa­per tow­els. Place pork, bone side down, on a wire rack set in­side a roast­ing pan, and chill, un­cov­ered, at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours.

3. Pre­heat oven to 250°F. Let pork stand at room tem­per­a­ture 30 min­utes. Roast pork un­til browned and a ther­mome­ter inserted in thick­est por­tion reg­is­ters 135°F, 1 hour and 30 min­utes to 2 hours. Re­move from oven, and let pork rest 30 min­utes. (Tem­per­a­ture will in­crease as pork rests.) In­crease oven tem­per­a­ture to 450°F.

4. Make the glaze: Stir to­gether miso, honey, and vine­gar in a small bowl. Brush glaze over pork. Re­turn pork to oven, and roast at 450°F un­til fat cap crisps and glaze be­gins to bub­ble and turn golden brown, about 10 min­utes.

5. Let pork stand 5 min­utes; carve be­tween bones into 6 chops.

WINE Earthy, pep­pery Syrah: 2015 Paul Jaboulet Aîné CrozesHer­mitage Les Jalets

TRY THIS METHOD WITH chicken leg quar­ters or rab­bit legs.

Bone-in rack of pork 12 to 24 hours in wet brine, plus 4 to 12 hours of air-dry­ing Mas­ter brine of 6%, with salt amount ad­justed for kombu and bonito flakes

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