Food & Wine



ONE MAJOR WINE trend over recent years has been what could be called a love affair with the distant past. Sometimes that means rediscover­ing older winemaking approaches; sometimes, vintners rescuing forgotten grape varieties from near extinction. These four wines are star examples of cutting-edge winemakers using the best of ancient techniques to make brilliant and boundary-pushing bottles.


When white grapes ferment on their skins, you get the amber hue and tannic notes of orange wines. In the early 2000s, this ancient approach was picked up by vintners in Italy’s Friuli region—the savory 2016 Dario

Princic Sivi Pinot ($57) is one stellar example.


Gently sparkling, often cloudy with yeast particles, and usually lightly sweet, these quaffable bubblies burst back into view in the 2010s, first from France (pét-nat’s homeland) and now from everywhere—even Texas, with the lively 2019 William Chris Pétillant Naturel ($25). FORGOTTEN GRAPES

Greek Malagousia, Spanish Godello, Italy’s Nascetta: these nearly extinct grapes have all been rediscover­y success stories, thanks to enterprisi­ng wine growers. Try the stony, fragrant 2019 Elvio Cogno Anas-Cëtta ($39) to see what drives the desire to save these varieties. HISTORIC VINEYARDS

Morgan Twain-Peterson has been at the forefront of a movement to save California’s historic vineyards from being plowed under. Visit historicvi­neyard for a list of these sites, maybe while sipping a glass of his luscious 2019 Bedrock Old Vine Zinfandel ($28).

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