How designer moves and cool collabs are fueling energy in the men’s market.
High-profile designer moves. Major retail expansion. Attention-grabbing collabs. What’s driving the men’s market now — and why fashion insiders are betting on a bright future.
Sebastian Manes, buying and merchandising director at Selfridges, said the recent Men’s Fashion Week in Paris was a notable standout. “There was so much excitement. The shows were incredible, and the collections were strong. It was a more sophisticated man on the runway, but there were still a lot of trainers. That will be the mindset going forward.”
Beyond the buzz, Cook is banking on commercial success in the season ahead, particularly at Dior. “The feedback from our VIPs on Kim’s Dior Homme debut was that it was the best show they’ve ever been to, and we’ve been inundated by requests for preorders,” Cook revealed. “We’ve not seen anything like it since Hedi at Saint Laurent.”
Slimane will reveal his inaugural men’s and women’s collections for Céline in September, and fashion insiders are eagerly anticipating the debut. “Hedi is one of the most creative designers out there, but he is also incredibly commercial,” said Le Bon Marché men’s director Franck Nauerz.
Cook said he is “seriously pumped” about seeing Slimane’s Céline. “The guy is a genius, and everything he touches turns to gold. We know he doesn’t do streetwear,” he said. “He is a rock ’n’ roll guy, and Céline is a minimal brand, so I’m super-excited to see his new direction.”
ALL IN THE NUMBERS
There’s no question that the men’s movement has been building — and retailers are looking to capitalize on the momentum with statementmaking initiatives.
According to Mintel, the U.S. men’s clothing industry racked up $82.4 billion in sales in 2017, with footwear totaling $23.8 billion. By 2022, shoe revenues are expected to hit $26.6 billion, with the total industry predicted to reach $92.1 billion.
Nordstrom made a splash with its first New York location, a 47,000-square-foot men’s-only store that opened in April. It was determined to highlight the fastgrowing men’s footwear market in a dynamic way.
“Shoes are the heritage of the company, and the business is important to all of us,” Kristin Frossmo, EVP and GMM of Nordstrom's shoe division told FN at the time. She reflected on how much the men’s category has evolved in recent years, with males embracing new trends and looking at shoes as a way to modernize their wardrobes.
Across the pond, Browns Fashion has dramatically upped the number of men’s labels it carries, while both Selfridges and Harrods are working on fresh men’s concepts to put the category firmly into the spotlight.
Meanwhile, in Paris, Printemps last year opened a five-floor dedicated men’s store at a cost of some $70.2 million. CEO Paolo de Cesare anticipates his men’s business will grow by 30 percent over the next two years.
LVMH-owned Le Bon Marché was ahead of the curve, opening a new men’s floor in 2014. The store is constantly adding to its offering in response to the increased demand for luxury streetwear.
This month sees the launch of an Off-White shop-in-shop at Bon Marche, and Nauerz hinted that Céline will most likely be given similar treatment when Slimane makes his men’s debut.
INNOVATION WINS
There’s no getting away from it — the cult of the sneaker now extends way beyond footwear.
One of the biggest talking points of spring ’19 was Sacai’s collaboration with Nike, according to footwear design consultant and Studio Hagel founder Mathieu Hagelaars.
Designer Chitose Abe applied her signature splicing techniques to two innovative mash-ups involving four Nike sneakers with double tongues,
Kim. Virgil. Riccardo. Hedi. ➵ The intense shuffling of the creative deck has fueled fresh excitement. ➵ “All the designer movement — Kim Jones going to Dior, Virgil Abloh to Vuitton, Riccardo Tisci to Burberry and Hedi Slimane to Céline — makes for a great mix and has put a load of energy back into the industry,” said Browns Fashion men’s buying manager Dean Cook.