LON­DON CON­TIN­UES TO PUSH CRE­ATIV­ITY — BACK­ING IT UP WITH COM­MER­CIAL VI­A­BIL­ITY

Footwear News - - INSIDER -

Lon­don has al­ways been known as the most cre­ative of the four fash­ion cap­i­tals. So for Ni­cholas Kirk­wood, choos­ing Lon­don Fash­ion Week to stage his de­but run­way show was a no-brainer.

Set in a dystopian world where cre­ativ­ity is a crime, the im­mer­sive pro­duc­tion was a re­ac­tion against the cur­rent play-it-safe state of re­tail, the de­signer said.

Open­ing with an ap­pear­ance from #MeToo ac­tivist Rose Mc­Gowan, the show was a plat­form for the de­signer’s most in­no­va­tive con­cepts — and gave him a chance to ex­plore ideas he might in­cor­po­rate into up­com­ing col­lec­tions.

“Ni­cholas has set off so many trends and cre­ated hunger in cus­tomers’ hearts,” said Matches

Fash­ion buy­ing di­rec­tor Na­talie King­ham. “Hav­ing a cre­ative out­let like this is, where new [con­cepts] will be born, is ex­cit­ing.”

Back in the present, he also dis­played a see-now, buy-now com­bat boot from his spring ’19 col­lec­tion, avail­able on Far­fetch.

On Lon­don’s more tra­di­tional run­ways, JW An­der­son and Christo­pher Kane were the ones to watch on the shoe front.

With their bright blue, starstud­ded spoil­ers, An­der­son’s souped-up Con­verse Chuck Tay­lors were an in­spired foil for his ready-to-wear, which ex­plored the idea of fe­male em­pow­er­ment through move­ment.

While the de­signer’s on­go­ing col­lab­o­ra­tion with the footwear gi­ant is a com­mer­cial suc­cess, it also draws in a younger de­mo­graphic whose pur­chas­ing power might not ex­tend to a $1,400 bag but for whom a $120 shoe is a dif­fer­ent story.

Fi­nally, only Christo­pher Kane can make a pump with a lacy tongue in­spired by a pair of strip­per’s pants. The de­signer called it the “pray­ing man­tis crotch shoe.” The show also fea­tured a new sneaker sil­hou­ette with pri­ma­ry­col­ored spheres for heels that riffed off a DNA strand.

“Pray­ing man­tis crotch shoe” at Christo­pher Kane

Rose Mc­Gowan at Ni­cholas Kirk­wood

DNA-in­spired sneaker at Christo­pher Kane

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