Restaurants:

Go, Consider, Stop

Edible enlightenment from our eatery experts and colleagues Richard Nalley, Monie Begley and Randall Lane, as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.

La Goulue

29 East 61st St. (Tel.: 212-988-8169)

Jean Denoyer’s resurrection of this restaurant, after an eight-year hiatus, is miraculous. Stellar starters include ballotine de poireaux, a combination of leeks, chopped egg and caviar with a light beet vinaigrette; haricot vert salad with sun-dried tomatoes, shaved artichoke and Parmesan; and tuna tartare Japonais with crispy tempura bits and wasabi miso dressing. Among the mains, the poached lobster salad with green sauce and the tangy steak tartare with sublime pommes frites are musts. For dessert, go for the Mont Blanc and savor the marrons and the mounds of rich crème.

DaDong

3 Bryant Park/120 West 42nd St. (Tel.: 212355-9600)

The two-floor setting at DaDong is spectacular. Almost every course is a beautiful visual work of art. But the disappointment in taste was revealed in course after course: Everything was bland. Short ribs, Wagyu fried rice, lobster saffron rice all seem alluring on the menu, but nothing was memorable. Prices are hefty, with Peking Duck at $58 for half a duck. Over seven courses and multiple desserts, the overall disappointment was stunning.

YN

227 Mott St., between Prince & Spring streets (Tel.: 212-226-3330)

This charming gastropub is a throwback to osterias in Little Italy before the area became “Nolita.” Silvana Creanza is chef, bartender and hostess. Share the Happy Plate with choices from an array of cheeses and salumi, along with a glass from a thoughtful wine selection. Try the juicy meatballs or a variety of crostini, including ground prosciutto, marinated artichokes or white anchovies. A must for brunch is the occhio di bue, a creamy egg dish. For dessert: bourbon chocolate chip cookie with espresso.

The Ainsworth–East Village

64 Third Ave., at 11th St. (Tel.: 212-419-1151) Cozy, paneled décor and reasonable noise levels lead you to expect more from the menu than is delivered. The lettuce wraps are unwieldly and awkward to eat, and the strip steak is as “tender” as you’d expect for $17.50 (the Monday special). The best bet is the shishito peppers in lemon and sea salt. Service is well-intentioned . . . but for the size of the tab, you can do better at similar places.

Philippe

33 East 60th St. (Tel.: 212-644-8885)

This sleek, contemporary interior is home to Philippe Chow’s creative vision of Beijing cuisine. It also offers one of the most reasonable lunchtime prix fixes in this part of town. The chicken lettuce wrap is challenging to eat but worth the effort. The spicy velvet chicken is a lighter alternative to the crispy beef—both of which are delicious. End the meal with some coconut sorbet; your palette will be cleansed, you won’t feel bloated, and your wallet won’t be depleted.