Go, Consider, stop

Edible enlightenment from our eatery experts and colleagues Richard Nalley, Monie Begley and Randall Lane, as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.

Loring place

21 West 8th St. (Tel.: 212-388-1831)

After two decades at top NYC restaurants, chef Dan Kluger has his own place. Kluger’s combinations of ingredients, spices and herbs create culinary magic in bursts of flavor and color. Begin with small plates of hummus and radishes, or thin, crisp zucchini fries with lemon and Parmesan dressing; or try a wood-grilled broccoli salad with orange and pistachios. Amazing pizzas, perfect for sharing, are made in wood-burning ovens. From the grill comes moist Arctic char or delicious Pekin duck. Delve into a divine cookie box with your coffee.

peasant

194 Elizabeth St., between Prince & Spring streets (Tel.: 212-965-9511)

Brick walls, old pews and 1950s metal diner chairs create a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. The asparagus with cheese and egg is hot and flavorsome, the lamb chops are cooked to perfection, and the polpi with hot peppers is perfectly piquant. The cioccolato is dense and delicious, and the panna cotta is sublime.

Lavo

39 East 58th St. (Tel.: 212-750-5588)

Just off Madison, this spot offers an enjoyable dining experience, especially when the weather is balmy enough for sitting outside. Portions are generous. Try the jumbo shrimp, the oysters on the half-shell or the charred octopus with celery, endive, fennel and red wine vinaigrette—all firstrate. The spicy, crispy chicken Dominick draws raves every time. Make sure you have company to share the marvelous 20-layer chocolate and peanut butter mascarpone cake.

Houseman

508 Greenwich St., between Spring & Watts streets (Tel.: 212-641-0654)

Concrete walls, white counters and wood-top tables make this a pleasant place to enjoy an unpretentious meal. The dressed (deviled) eggs and the cucumber spears dipped in crushed sunflowers with olive oil on the side are refreshing starters. The French onion sandwich is a tasty grilled cheese with crispy caramelized onions melted within. Add chicken to the radicchio salad with blue-cheese dressing and you’ll still have room for the house special pound cake or the peanut tart with sour cream.

Lusardi’s

1494 Second Ave., between 77th & 78th streets (Tel.: 212-249-2020)

Luigi and Mauro Lusardi, chef Claudio Meneghini and partner Imer Djekaj have continued to pack this place for more than 35 years with their authentic, delicious Northern Italian cuisine. Pastas are luscious, from creamy rigatoni cipullo (with sausage and prosciutto) to tangy linguine all’ammiraglia (seafood in lobster sauce). Veal Martini and fegato alla Veneziana (liver) are both sautéed to perfection. Finish with crema al limone (lemon crème brûlée).