Forbes

Restaurant­s:

Go, Consider, Stop

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Edible enlightenm­ent from our eatery experts and colleagues Richard Nalley, Monie Begley and Randall Lane, as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.

The Drunken Munkey

338 East 92nd St. (Tel.: 646-998-4600) Delightful bistro serving delicious Indian fare based on interpreta­tions of authentic recipes from the British Raj, Indian aristocrac­y and local village specialtie­s of the 1910s to the 1940s. Chandelier­s with red-coated monkeys surround the dark-wood bar and candlelit tables. Begin with aloo-tikki, a crisp potato pancake stuffed with spinach and spices; or the spicy dahi puri, a puff pastry of potato and chickpea topped with yogurt. Biryani, the royal rice made with lamb, is rich, juicy and spice-filled. Two signature dishes are butter chicken tikka masala, cooked tandoori-style and served in a creamy tomato sauce; and masala Bombay lamb chops, which are marinated in five spices and served with tamarind-mango chutney. Finish the meal with sinfully delicious toffee pudding.

Chinese Tuxedo

5 Doyers St., between Pell St. & the Bowery (Tel.: 646-895-9301)

Exotic, grand and romantic, like something out of an Indiana Jones movie, this is the swankiest restaurant in Chinatown. The food may not be as ethereal as the space, a former opera house, but there are enough high notes and flourishes mixed in, such as king prawn spring rolls and hot-and-sour steak tartare, to justify the trip—and the bill.

The Loyal

289 Bleecker St., between Barrow & Jones streets (Tel.: 212-488-5800)

Chef John Fraser’s first brasserie is a winner, from the dark, retro vibe to the whimsical cocktails (the Willy Wonka, for example, adds pecan demerara and dark chocolate bitters to bourbon) to the classic menu offering a raw bar, steaks, pastas and salads. Other places present fireworks; this one delivers comfort and competence.

The LCL: Bar & Kitchen

The Westin Hotel New York Grand Central 212 East 42nd St. (Tel.: 212-405-4399)

The service is fine, but the food is merely mediocre. So-so ravioli and chilly chicken paillard do not make this a must-go-to place, especially when there’s an almost 30-minute wait for them. However, end your meal on a high note with either the pistachio gelato with strawberry jam or the brownie à la mode.

Don Angie

103 Greenwich Avenue, between Jane & 12th streets (Tel.: 212-889-8884) Husband-and-wife team Angie Rito and Scott Tacinelli have opened this hot spot for Italian cooking. The stuffed garlic flatbread is warm and filled with creamy cheese. The chrysanthe­mum salad is their crisp, plentiful take on a Caesar; the prosciutto and melon is refreshing and lightly tossed with sheep cheese and hazelnuts. Lasagna for two is a signature dish that’s rich, creamy and so divine it will keep you returning for more. The tiramisu is original, rich and filled with caramel.

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