RESTAURANTS: GO, CONSIDER , STOP

Edible enlightenment from our eatery experts and colleagues Richard Nalley, Monie Begley and Randall Lane, as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.

Le Jardinier

610 Lexington Ave., at 53rd St.

(Tel.: 212-451-9211)

Chef Alain Verzeroli is steeped in the luxury-food traditions of both France and Japan. His ground-floor restaurant’s leafy plants and its marble walls and tabletops shot through with veins of green create an ultra-stylish and tranquil garden-like oasis. The menu’s centerpiece is its use of seasonal fruits and vegetables. A prime example is the sensational watermelon, heirloom tomato, ginger and mint appetizer. But Verzeroli doesn’t stint on his fish selections, such as the perfect king salmon with mushroom bouillon, or in his meat offerings, like the smoky, rich and toothsome bavette au jus. Desserts are superb. You may never taste a more mango-y mango than in his mango crémeux with coconut sorbet.

Agern

Grand Central Terminal, 89 East 42nd St. (Tel.: 646-568-4018)

This Danish contemporary spot serves up seasonal fare with a Scandinavian flourish. (It also makes a great Cosmopolitan!) The beef tartare is as tasty as it is beautifully presented, and the succulent pork shoulder is particularly noteworthy. The chef even manages to make fava beans exciting. Desserts are good but are perhaps the weakest link in an otherwise perfect meal. One caution for a restaurant in a rail station: Service is surprisingly slow.

Momofuku Ssäm Bar

207 Second Ave., at 13th St. (ssambar.momofuku.com)

Arguably the most influential restaurant from New York’s most important restaurant group of the past decade, Ssäm has a new chef and a new menu focused on Singapore street food, such as skate roasted in banana leaf. While you can still furtively order a pork bun, the culinary theatrics are largely gone. Diners have noticed: It’s never been easier to score a table.

Mimi

185 Sullivan St., between Bleecker and West Houston streets (Tel.: 212-418-1260) You can’t go wrong with anything at this tiny Village eatery. The menu is French with an updated take on many classics. For a tasty surprise try the veal brain appetizer. The softshell crab is among the best you’ll have had all season, and Goldilocks would declare the hanger steak “just right.” If you choose the baba au rhum for dessert, you won’t need an after-dinner drink.