RESTAURANTS: GO, CONSIDER , STOP
Edible enlightenment from our eatery experts and colleagues Monie Begley, Richard Nalley and Randall Lane, as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.
• Boulud Sud
20 West 64th St. (Tel.: 212-595-1313)
This is a snazzy place to have dinner before heading over to Lincoln Center. To accommodate those doing that, there’s a special
$75 prix fixe menu with many options that will get you across the street in plenty of time. Appetizers include a soup, a salad and two seafood selections (each with a supplemental charge). The Italian chicory salad gets the palate ready for a perfectly seared Mediterranean sea bass or a Snake River Farms Wagyu beef bavette ($20 supplement).
The coconut rice pudding is scrumptious.
• Osteria Delbianco
22 East 49th St. (Tel.: 212-838-5972)
This pleasant, smallish Midtown Italian offers straightforward classics at only moderately high prices. The pastas are made in house daily, and you can’t go wrong with either the spaghetti al pomodoro or the tagliatelle al ragù (Bolognese sauce). The grilled salmon is as good as it gets, and the veal scallopine is generous and delicious.
• Corner Bar
Nine Orchard hotel, 60 Canal St., at the corner of Allen St. (Tel.: 646-869-9310)
The vibe at Corner Bar is cool, and chef Ignacio Mattos whips up some dishes that will make you happy you made the trip.
The oysters mignonette is particularly tangy, and the steak tartare is a meal in itself.
The duck à l’orange flies off the plate, and the boudin blanc is as good as any found in Alsace. The crème brûlée is overshadowed only by the deep, dark chocolate sauce on the delectable profiteroles.
• L’Osteria
1219 Lexington Ave., between 82nd & 83rd streets (Tel.: 646-524-6294)
A welcome UES find. The decor is comfortable, but the food is what people come for, and that is done so well. The grilled shrimp with salsa verde starts things off perfectly, or if you like cauliflower and cheese, try the fonduta. The grilled salmon with kale purée and Dijon mustard sauce is divine. Our next visit calls for a thorough sampling of the terrific pasta offerings. Both the tiramisu and the panna cotta will keep your tummy happy.
• Ernesto’s
259 East Broadway, at Montgomery St. (Tel.: 646-692-8300)
This Basque bistro serves up satisfying renditions of classic dishes. Start with sliced Ibérico ham (from pigs fed only acorns, giving it a unique, rich, nutty flavor that’s divine) served interlaced with a small mountain of homemade potato chips, or an order of batter-fried Portuguese sardines with lemon aioli. Move on to braised rabbit and mushrooms with rice, or duck breast with port and foie gras sauce, accompanied by a red wine from one of the small Spanish organic wineries featured on the unusual wine list.
• Estiatorio Milos
125 West 55th St. (Tel.: 212-245-7400) Dark-suited throngs pack into the flagship of this flashy, upscale icon of Greek cuisine. But after a recent visit, it’s hard not to conclude that somewhere along the way to burgeoning into a nine-city international restaurant empire, Milos lost soul and direction. The interior space is as gorgeous as ever—though you may be seated instead in a plastic-walled tent on the outdoor plaza next door—and the centerpiece display of fresh fish on ice is still mouthwatering and impressive. But when the waiter surprises you by substituting the whole red snapper you ordered with a fish you didn’t (at $161) and offers you “take it or leave it” while turning and walking away, it crystallizes the overheated, food-factory feel that characterizes the entire experience.
• San Marino Ristorante
64 Charlton St., between Hudson & Varick streets (Tel.: 212-206-3766)
The skylight-enclosed patio at this spot in Soho that specializes in Northern Italian fare is the perfect setting for a perfect meal. The grilled octopus is as tasty as the prosciutto with melon ripened to perfection. You won’t find a better saltimbocca, and the sea bass disappears faster than the time it takes to catch it. Save room for tiramisu.
• The Bar Room
117 East 60th St., between Park & Lexington avenues (Tel.: 212-561-5523)
It’s great to find a place with character and no pretense in such a posh part of town. Darkpaneled walls and buttoned-leather banquettes make this the perfect setting to enjoy simple yet satisfying food. The nachos with all the trimmings could feed a party of four during a Super Bowl gathering—a fun and filling way to start. The chicken paillard is pounded as thin as a crêpe; along with the tasty wild arugula, cherry tomato and shaved Parmesan salad, it makes a light segue after the nachos. Ditto the Tuscan kale salad with red quinoa, cranberries and a Dijon vinaigrette. For dessert choose among brownies, Key lime pie and apple crumble—the first and last of which are served with a scoop of ice cream.
• Portale
126 West 18th St. (Tel.: 917-781-0255)
Chic, vibey restaurant that’s perfect for a night out with friends or a date, with low lights and beautiful decor. The menu offers modern Italian fare that may not blow you away yet will never disappoint. The cocktails are delicious— and strong. The highs: house-made bread with butter served with a generous dusting of sea salt, the incredibly tender octopus and the spicy sausage and broccoli rabe risotto.