160 Prince St., at Thompson St. (Tel.: 917261-6318)
Pino Luongo, proprietor of this updated version of the UES original, brought Tuscan fare to NYC in the mid-1980s. Offerings sound classic but are prepared with updated creativity. Begin with insalata carciofi, a light salad of raw baby artichokes, Parmigiano and fennel tossed in olive oil and lemon. The ovenroasted calamari is served with thin fried zucchini. The pastas are perfection, and the cotoletta is a scrumptious version of a breaded veal cutlet. Finish with tangerine soufflé and a glass of limoncello.