Seiko SPB149

Seiko’s broad collection of modern dive watches all began with a single model in 1965: known as the 62MAS (aka reference 6217-8001), it still underpins the brand’s aesthetics and feel. The 62MAS was not only a milestone for Seiko, but is also recognized as Japan’s first professionally oriented dive watch. Water-resistant to 150m and featuring an automatic movement, it had most of the basic traits of modern divers and the pragmatic looks that now captivate vintage watch enthusiasts.

Though it’s been replicated and reinterpreted over the years, the 62MAS’S latest incarnation, the SPB149, truly nails the balance between retro and contemporary, making for one of the most compelling timepieces of 2020. Blocky elements of the watch’s design — such as the hands, indices and the case itself — evoke the 62MAS, but its broad bezel immediately sets it apart. More than these design elements, however, it’s the high level of refinement and build quality that characterize the SPB149, reinforced by premium features like sapphire crystal and Seiko’s recently upgraded 6R35 automatic movement with 70 hours of power reserve.

The SPB149 (and its related siblings) is still very much a tool watch with the rock-solid quality and value Seiko fans expect, but its design, dimensions and character make it stand from out other divers in Seiko’s approximately $1,000 Prospex tier — and from most of the non-seiko competition.

Specs

Movement: Seiko cal. 6R35 automatic

Water Resistance: 200 meters

Diameter: 40.5mm $1,350