David Hyde Pierce shines behind the chef star in ‘Julia’

David Hyde Pierce returns to TV this spring playing a familiar part — an erudite man who adores fine food, wine and art. But this has nothing to do with “Frasier.”

Pierce is playing Peter Child, husband and chief cheerleader of Julia Child, whose warbling, encouraging voice and able hands brought the intricacies of French cuisine to American home cooks through her TV series and books.

“These are two people of great depth, of great complexity of character, who found each other, and I think we all are luckier for it,” said Pierce. “I really loved Paul, having come to study him.”

HBO Max’s eight-part “Julia” traces its culinary heroine’s unlikely arc from home kitchen cook to national icon, all the while supported by her husband, a diplomat-turned-artist. “You’re teaching Americans how to taste life, and they’re listening; that’s (expletive) huge,” he tells her.

Viewers will see Peter Child evolve from a snob who refuses to allow a television set in their home to a man eager to hold cue cards for his wife on the kitchen set of “The French Chef.”

“I think about him in comparison to the character of Niles on ‘Frasier’ because they’re two characters who obviously both love food and wine and stuff like that,” said Pierce. “But I think of Niles as a person who lived in spite of his body. And Paul is a man who lives completely in his body.”

Opposite him is Sarah Lancashire as the title character, nailing Julia’s vocal and physical tics, the clucking and cooing, lurching movements and sudden gales of laughter. They make a fascinating couple — she impulsive and charmingly awkward and he more introspective and careful.