This crispy fish is irresistible
There are some types of dishes you find the world over. They have different names on their passports and come in diverging styles, but they share delicious fundamentals. The breaded cutlet — known aliases include katsu, schnitzel and Milanesa — is one of them, and a favorite of mine. So I was in heaven when I had chicken Milanese last week at a restaurant, the first one I’ve had in a while, the cutlet golden and crisp, a wild heap of arugula salad on top and a jaunty lemon wedge on the side. It’s a full meal, and a perfect one at that.
You really can Milanese (or katsu, or schnitzel) just about anything. The traditional northern Italian dish is made with veal. The version below uses flounder and adds avocado on the side, for something lighter but no less delicious. Chicken, pork, tofu, cauliflower: All can be sliced or pounded, breaded and fried, served with something acidic for perk.
FISH MILANESE
This fast weeknight dinner features quick-cooking flounder prepared alla Milanese, the style of breading and frying meat cutlets. The fillets are lightly breaded and pan-fried until golden and crisp on the outside and tender in the middle. A lemony, brownbutter pan sauce with capers comes together quickly to add a tangy brininess to the dish. A bit of avocado on the side adds creaminess that balances the crisp fish and peppery arugula. Any leftover fish makes for terrific sandwiches the next day, stacked with lettuce, tomato, pickles and mayo. By Kay Chun shallow bowls, and season each with salt and pepper. Crumble the oregano with your fingertips and add to the breadcrumbs; mix well.
Season fish with salt. Working with one piece at a time, dredge in flour (shake off excess), dip in egg (shake off excess) then dredge in breadcrumbs, pressing to adhere. Transfer to a large plate.
In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium heat. Add 2 fillets and cook until golden underneath, about 3 minutes. Flip fish and cook until golden on the second side and cooked through, 2 minutes longer. Transfer to a large paper towel-lined plate, and season with salt. Wipe out skillet. Repeat with 1 tablespoon of the butter, 1 tablespoon of the oil and the remaining fish.
Wipe out skillet and melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter
over medium-low heat. Add shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until shallot is softened and butter is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil, plus the lemon juice, parsley, capers and caper brine, and mix well. Transfer the brownbutter vinaigrette to a small heatproof bowl, and season with salt and pepper.
Divide the fish, arugula and avocado among plates, and drizzle with the brownbutter vinaigrette. Serve with lemon wedges.
NARJISSIYA WITH ASPARAGUS, HALLOUMI AND SUMAC
Narjissiya refers to any of several dishes found in medieval Arab cookery books made with sunny-side-up eggs. The word itself means “like narcissus,” a name likely chosen for the dish’s vibrant white and yellow colors, just like the narcissus (daffodil) flower. The ancient variations and ingredients were endless, from meat and broad beans to chickpeas and yogurt, but the choice of ingredients here — and bright flavors — are inspired by spring, and asparagus, which grows wild in the fields of the Levant. The citrusy sumac and olive oil complement asparagus and eggs, but their flavors do stand out, so use the best you can find. By Reem Kassis
Yield: 2 to 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes For the pita croutons: 75 grams pita bread (about 1 medium pita), cut into bite-size pieces (or simply use a handful of pita chips) For the sumac oil: 1 tablespoon good-quality sumac 2 tablespoons goodquality extra-virgin olive oil
For the yogurt: Scant ½ cup plain yogurt ¼ teaspoon kosher salt For the narjissiyeh: 2 teaspoons plus 1 tablespoon olive oil 5 to 6 ounces halloumi, cut into bite-size cubes (about 1 cup) and dried well on paper towels 1 (14-ounce) bunch asparagus (see Note), woody ends trimmed, chopped into 1-inch pieces (about 2 heaping cups) ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 large or 2 small garlic cloves, crushed in a garlic press or minced 4 eggs
Prepare the pita croutons: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Arrange the pita pieces on a baking sheet in an even layer. Bake until the squares are completely dry and crisp, and starting to darken in color, about 10 to 15 minutes. (This step can be done a couple of days in advance, and the bread stored in an airtight container or a resealable plastic bag. Or you can do it while you prep the rest of the dish. Skip this step if using the pita chips.)
Meanwhile, prepare the sumac oil: Combine the sumac and olive oil in a small bowl and mix well.
Prepare the yogurt: Mix together the yogurt and salt with 1 to 2 tablespoons water, just enough to get a thick drizzling consistency. Set aside.
In a medium cast-iron (or nonstick) frying pan, heat 2 teaspoons olive oil over medium. Add the halloumi pieces in a single layer. Do not move them around or flip them over until any released water evaporates and pieces start to brown, about 2 minutes. Flip them over and cook for another minute until the other side is browned. Transfer to a small plate and set aside.
To the same pan, add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and heat over medium. Add the asparagus and salt and cook, tossing around, just until bright green and glossy, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and continue to cook for another minute or so, just until fragrant.
Crack the eggs over the asparagus. Return the halloumi cheese to the pan, dispersing it evenly over the whites and the asparagus, then cover the pan and cook until your desired level of doneness, about 3 to 5 minutes.
To serve, scatter the pita croutons over the dish, then drizzle with the yogurt and sumac oil.
TIP: If you do not like asparagus, you can substitute it with an equal quantity (weight) of another spring vegetable, like fava beans, green beans, English peas or even spinach.
PASTA WITH CHOPPED PESTO AND PEAS
This pesto doesn’t call for a food processor, blender, or mortar and pestle — and it’s better for it. Instead, all of the elements are chopped and mashed together by hand. (Pesto means“to pound, crush or smash” in Italian.) In Tuscany, this would be done with a half moon-shaped mezzaluna, but a chef ’s knife does the job, too. The result is a more textured mix with bright pops of flavor, like a sauce, herb salad and nut garnish in one. Basil and pine nuts are classic choices, but this version works with whatever soft herbs and nuts that you like and have on hand.
By Ali Slagle
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes Kosher salt and black pepper ½ cup raw walnuts, pine nuts, pistachios, almonds or a combination 2 ounces Parmesan, plus more for serving 1 large garlic clove 2 packed cups soft herbs, such as basil, parsley, mint or arugula ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving 1 pound curly pasta, such as casarecce or fusilli 2 cups (10 ounces) frozen peas
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In a small or medium skillet over medium, toast nuts, shaking the skillet occasionally until browned (try one to see), 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board to cool.
As the nuts cool, into a large bowl, grate the Parmesan on the small holes of a box grater (or pulse chunks in a blender).
Add the garlic clove and a pinch of salt to the pile of nuts and coarsely chop the nuts and garlic together.
Add a handful of the herbs and another pinch of salt, and coarsely chop. (Opt for forceful, purposeful chops as opposed to soft, timid ones.) Toss and smash the mixture every few chops. Repeat with the remaining herbs, salting at each step, until a wet, coarse paste forms. Stir into the cheese, then stir in the olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente. In the last 3 minutes of cooking, add the peas to the pasta. Reserve 1 cup pasta water, then drain. Add the pasta and peas to the pesto and stir to combine. Add pasta water as needed to loosen the sauce. Season to taste with salt, pepper, more oil and more Parmesan.
STICKY COCONUT CHICKEN AND RICE
This comforting onepot chicken dish features fragrant coconut rice infused with aromatic ginger, garlic and scallion, and studded with toasty cashews. The cashews soften as the rice steams, adding subtle nuttiness to the dish. Chicken thighs absorb the coconut milk as they cook, which keeps the meat tender and juicy. Fresh chopped cilantro brightens the dish, while hot sauce adds nice heat and tang to balance the creamy, rich and slightly sweet rice. By Kay Chun
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 45 minutes 1 ½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, each thigh cut into 2 equal-size pieces ¼ cup neutral oil, such as safflower or canola 2 teaspoons kosher salt (Diamond Crystal) ½ teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 ½ cups short-grain white rice, rinsed until water runs clear 1 ¾ cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 (13.5-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk 1 yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped (½inch pieces) ½ cup roasted cashews, coarsely chopped 3 scallions, green and white parts, thinly sliced (½ packed cup) 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped cilantro Hot sauce, for serving
Heat oven to 375 degrees. Rub chicken with 1 tablespoon of oil, and season with 1 teaspoon of salt and ¼ teaspoon of pepper.
In a large Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium. Working in two batches, brown chicken, turning halfway, until no longer pink, around 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, the ginger and the garlic to the empty pot, and stir until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add rice and stir until evenly coated in the oil. Add broth, coconut milk, bell pepper, cashews, scallions and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Stir to lift up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Arrange chicken on top, add any accumulated juices from the plate and bring to a boil over high.
Cover and bake until all of the liquid is absorbed, rice is tender and chicken is cooked through, 25 minutes. Scatter cilantro over the chicken and rice, then divide among bowls. Serve with hot sauce.