AND TO DRINK …

With the richness of the polenta, butter and cheese, the sweetness of the shallots, the bitter grassiness of asparagus and the green freshness of peas, the choice of wine is anything but straightforward. I would lean toward a dry white wine, while avoiding any overt oakiness. A good, rich Sancerre would do the trick nicely, as would a grüner veltliner of similar weight. An unoaked Chablis would be delicious. You could choose an Italian white — like a Soave, verdicchio or Fiano di Avellino — or a godello or albariño from Spain. If you prefer a red, I would go for something light, like a Valpolicella Classico or Bardolino from the Veneto region of Italy, a Ribera Sacra from Spain or a French Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages. — ERIC ASIMOV