“AS I SEEK NEW WINES, I ALWAYS THINK OF OUR REGULARS.” —

Spain,” he says. “But as I seek new wines, I always think of our regulars.” A certified sommelier, Cohen sees himself as a storyteller. “Tableside, I try to paint a picture.” More than 20 half-bottles (including a 2012 Joseph Phelps Insignia) can be found on the list, adorned since 2007 with a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Beyond the famous labels, there are many lesser-known micro-producers from around the world. “It’s all about trust,” says Cohen. “I ask, ‘Do you want to take a trip to Spain tonight?’”

In the kitchen, executive chef Michael Rozzi steers easily between pub fare for the intimate tavern downstairs and new American for the dining room and patio; between Korean BBQ Berkshire ribs, and seared Hudson Valley foie gras with pineapple, vanilla rum, and duck jus. Rozzi’s family has been anchored on the East End for three generations, and his steady relationships with farmers and local fishermen show on his seasonal menu.

No one knows who the lady is in the portrait adorning the staircase that leads to the cozy bedrooms, but it might as well be an ancestor of the true lady of the house, Bonnie Krupinski. “The Smithsonian wanted the 1600s cherrywood paneling in the sitting room,” she says, “but we decided to keep it.”

In this era when casual dining reigns and white tablecloths are often shunned, 1770 House, with its picket fence and garden, feels like a private mansion curated by a dedicated crew. The good news is that an invitation is only a phone call away! 143 Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-1770; 1770house.com

michael cohen