Hartford Courant (Sunday)

5 grilling myths

You should stop believing right now

- BY JOSEPH HERNANDEZ CHICAGO TRIBUNE

Everything you know about grilling is wrong, but thankfully, messiah of meat Meathead Goldwyn is here to help. Since founding AmazingRib­s.com in 2005, the self-avowed barbecue whisperer has inspired a legion of fans to up their flame game by debunking grilling and barbecue’s “old husbands’ tales” (Meathead’s phrase). Armed with tried-and-true know-how — all backed by years of science-focused tests — the grand pooh-bah of grilling penned his namesake New York Times bestsellin­g guide “Meathead: The Science of Great Barbecue and Grilling.”

Here, he busts five common myths you should stop believing to become a better weekend pitmaster.

Myth 1: You can test a meat’s doneness with your hand

“Good grilling begins with understand­ing temperatur­e,” says Meathead, scoffing at the notion of measuring a meat’s doneness by pressing parts of your hands. “A filet is a different texture from sirloin. You can’t just poke a meat to know that it’s perfectly cooked.” he said.

Chefs who work with the same meat and cut day in, day out, can get away with measuring doneness in this way because they are familiar with it, he says. “If you’re not a pro chef, get a meat thermomete­r. It is your No. 1 tool around a grill.”

Myth 2: Soak your wood chips for the most smoke

After weighing wood chunks and soaking them in water for 12 hours, the author and his team dried the wood with towels before weighing them again, to see how much water was actually absorbed. The result? A negligible weight gain. “Throwing wet wood on charcoal does nothing but lower the temperatur­e of the grill,” said Meathead. “You’re creating steam and cooling off the fire. You’re not generating more smoke.”

Myth 3: Marinating penetrates meat

Meathead and his team found that most marinades don’t really penetrate most meats. “It works for thin cuts, but marinade rarely penetrates more than 1/8 inch thick,” said Meathead. Instead, he advises the use of spice rubs and judicious use of salt. “It’s one of the few things that can actually get into the meat,” said Meathead. “Salt in advance. It will amplify flavors and turn the dial to 11.” Marinades keep the outer surface of the meat wet, which prevents browning and flavor developmen­t.

Myth 4: Grill marks are good, and flipping your meat is bad

“We eat with our eyes, so beautiful grill marks have always been a sign of good steak,” said Meathead. “I see lost potential when I see grill marks on meat: You want it all brown.” By constantly flipping the meat as it cooks, you’re not only cooking the meat evenly, but you’re ensuring maximum Maillard reaction — the food geek term for the browning of food, which changes the chemical compositio­n, thus developing depth of flavor and texture.

Myth 5: Fire up the whole grill

“Temperatur­e control is the most important skill you can learn,” says Meathead. “Don’t turn all the burners to high or dump charcoal across the entire bottom of the grill.” Instead, create two temperatur­e zones — the source of the flames will produce direct radiant heat, while the other side (with no charcoal, or the gas turned off ) benefits from convection heating. The indirect zone will allow you to cook your meat more gently, helping you grill your meat evenly and preventing burning. Placing your food on the hot side will allow you to finish off foods, what Meathead calls a “reverse sear,” allowing you to crisp up chicken skins or create a crust on your meat before serving it.

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