Hartford Courant (Sunday)

Growing a healthy garden during drought

Gardening in dry conditions means setting priorities

- By Jessica Damiano Jessica Damiano writes regularly about gardening for The Associated Press. A master gardener and educator, she writes The Weekly Dirt newsletter and creates an annual wall calendar of daily gardening tips.

Many people try to save water just to do the right thing (and save money too). But when serious drought hits, and state and local government­s enforce restrictio­ns, water conservati­on becomes non-negotiable.

So far this summer, nearly 65% of the United States and Puerto Rico is experienci­ng “abnormally dry” weather, according to the U.S. Drought Monitor. Almost 43% of those locations are contending with “moderate” drought, and nearly 47% with “severe,” “extreme” or “exceptiona­l” drought. That means more than 109 million people are living under drought conditions.

And a lot of them have plants or yards to worry about.

Unfortunat­ely, it’s a little late in the season to begin trying two of the best ways to conserve water in the garden. First, rain barrels and other rain harvesting methods are of little use when there’s no rain to fill them.

Second, xeriscapin­g, the practice of planting drought-tolerant plants, many of them native to a region, works only if those plants are already in place. Consider both for next year.

Native plants are welladapte­d to their climate and more tolerant of adverse conditions like drought. Check the EPA’s compilatio­n of droughttol­erant plant resources, listed by state, at epa.gov/ watersense/what-plant to find your best options.

Choosing which plants to water

If you’re gardening under water restrictio­ns, prioritize which plants need water most and which can be sacrificed if need

be. Newly planted trees and shrubs are high on the priority list. They require regular watering until their roots become establishe­d, which can take a full year.

Older trees, especially fruit, nut and ornamental trees, but also evergreens, can suffer from drought, so don’t forget about them.

Perennial flowers, which return year after year and are more expensive than annuals, should be next on the list, along with vegetables in their flowering and fruiting stages. Melons and squash, which have deep roots, can typically get by with less water than crops like corn, which have shallow roots.

Low on the list of priorities should be annuals, which are not long-term investment­s anyway; crops with high water needs, like beans, cabbage, cauliflowe­r, celery, corn, lettuce and radishes; and plants growing in pots, as they require more water than their in-ground counterpar­ts. None will likely thrive with the little water

that can be offered under mandated restrictio­ns.

Watering efficientl­y

Most plants require an average of 1 to 1 ½ of water per week under normal conditions, which amounts to a little more than a half-gallon of water per square foot of garden space. That need could increase, however, during periods of extreme heat, when the soil dries out more quickly.

Regardless, don’t apply your plants’ weekly water needs all at once. Divide it

over two or three sessions per week, opting for deeper, less-frequent waterings over daily sprinkles, which are wasteful and ineffectiv­e at saturating roots.

Watering deeply also establishe­s stronger, deeper roots that are better able to sustain plants when surface water becomes less available.

Avoid using overhead sprinklers, which wet foliage, pavement and other areas instead of directing water to plant roots. Instead, place soaker hoses

or drip-irrigation tubing on the soil directly over roots. Watering cans and handheld hoses aimed at the soil work, too.

Water only in the morning (or in the evening, if absolutely necessary), but avoid midday, when moisture is likely to evaporate before reaching roots.

Consider using so-called gray water, recycled household water, to water plants. Unsalted water left over from boiling eggs or vegetables provides a nutrientri­ch bonus. Dish and bath water that’s not too soapy won’t harm ornamental plants. Just don’t apply it to edibles. And water captured while rinsing fruits and vegetables can be used around the garden.

Other tips for reducing thirst

Keep beds and borders free of weeds, which compete with your plants for water and nutrients. A 3-inch layer of bark mulch, wood chips or gravel around plants will help prevent weed seeds from taking hold, retain soil moisture and keep the soil cooler.

Set mower blades high to promote deeper roots. Taller grass needs less water because it grows slowly and shades the soil. Repair or replace leaky hoses and bib connection­s.

Some don’ts: Avoid fertilizin­g plants during drought. This might seem counterint­uitive, but fertilizer­s promote fast growth, which increases the need for water. Avoid using weed killers, which tend to drift to other areas in hot weather; they’re less effective in high temperatur­es anyway.

Don’t plant anything new, and avoid pruning plants, which stresses them and increases their water needs.

Going forward, consider replacing the lawn with native groundcove­rs. Incorporat­e generous helpings of compost into beds and planting holes to improve water retention. Observe the sun-exposure requiremen­ts on plant tags (shade lovers need more water when exposed to too much sun). And use more native plants.

Next summer, this could be easier.

 ?? CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF WATER RESOURCES 2013 ?? A drip irrigation system is preferable to traditiona­l sprinklers as it applies water directly to plant roots, where it is needed.
CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF WATER RESOURCES 2013 A drip irrigation system is preferable to traditiona­l sprinklers as it applies water directly to plant roots, where it is needed.
 ?? JOSIE BYRNES ?? Plants are dead and dry in this drought-ravaged front-yard garden June 29 in Newbury Park, California.
JOSIE BYRNES Plants are dead and dry in this drought-ravaged front-yard garden June 29 in Newbury Park, California.

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