BUCATINI ALL’AMATRICIANA

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Kosher salt

1 pound dried bucatini or rigatoni pasta 2 cloves garlic (optional)

3 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese

8 ounces unsliced guanciale, preferably unseasoned

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes, tomato puree or passata (about 3 cups) 1 (about 4-inch) sprig fresh marjoram or oregano

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, plus more for serving

1. Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce.

2. Crush 2 garlic cloves if using and discard the peels. Finely grate 3 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese on the smallest holes of the box grater (about 1 ¼ cups). Using a sharp knife, cut 8 ounces of guanciale into ¼-inchthick matchsticks that are about 1 inch long. Line a plate with paper towels.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large 12-inch high-sided skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the guanciale and cook, stirring often, until golden brown and crisp all over, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the guanciale to the prepared plate with a slotted spoon.

4. Add 1 pound dried bucatini or rigatoni to the boiling water and cook according to the package until al dente, 8 to 12 minutes.

5. Return the skillet with the guanciale fat to low heat. Slowly add 1 (28-ounce) can crushed or pureed tomatoes or passata (about 3 cups). Be careful; it may bubble and sputter. Add the garlic cloves, 1 (4-inch) fresh marjoram or oregano sprig, and ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes.

6. Increase heat to medium and bring to a bare simmer, stirring vigorously to combine. Simmer until flavors meld but the tomatoes do not reduce much, 8 to 10 minutes. If the pasta is not ready, turn off the heat.

7. Remove and discard the garlic cloves and herb sprig. Reserve ¼ cup of the cooked guanciale and ¼ cup of the cheese for garnish. Add the remaining guanciale and cheese to the sauce, and stir to combine.

8. When the pasta is ready, use tongs to transfer the pasta into the skillet reserving some of the pasta water. Toss, over low heat, until the pasta is well coated with sauce, adding the pasta water 1 tablespoon at a time as needed to make it saucy (2 to 4 tablespoons). Serve topped with the reserved guanciale, cheese and more red pepper flakes, if desired.