Hartford Courant

Grilled to perfection

Reverse-searing method rewards you with a juicy steak always cooked to an even doneness, complete with a charred crust

- By Steven Raichlen

The quest to cook the perfect steak has been a challenge since slabs of meat were roasted over fire. But what constitute­s a great steak?

It should take you through a complex strata of textures and flavors: dark crust, rosy meat, tenderness balanced by chew.

You want a steak you can sink your teeth into. There should be a perfect ratio of meat to fat — and there should be blood. Without those luscious steak juices, a steak would be merely delicatess­en roast beef.

Tri-tip delivers all of that. A cut popularize­d in Santa Maria, California, and the surroundin­g area, this crescent-shaped steak from the bottom of the sirloin slices like brisket and eats like steak, with a rich, beefy flavor. But like all thick cuts, it poses a challenge: Grill it directly over high heat as you would a strip or skirt steak and you risk burning the exterior while leaving the center undercooke­d. Cook it low and slow, as you would brisket, and you lose the caramelize­d crust.

Enter reverse-searing, an ingenious grilling method that combines the low and slow smoking of traditiona­l barbecue with the high heat charring practiced at steakhouse­s. It takes the guesswork out of grilling steak, rewarding you with a juicy, perfectly cooked slab of beef every time.

With this simple two-step process, you first cook the steak slowly — for 30 minutes or so — at 250 degrees, the temperatur­e used by pitmasters to barbecue brisket. Once you’ve warmed the center of the meat to 110 degrees, you rest the steak on a platter and raise the grill’s heat to a searing temperatur­e of 600 degrees. You then char the exterior of the steak directly over the fire until sizzling, crusty and dark brown, bringing the meat’s internal temperatur­e to 125 degrees (for rare) or 135 degrees (for medium-rare).

Reverse-searing offers several advantages over traditiona­l direct grilling over high heat, in which steak goes from undercooke­d to overcooked in a minute or two, requiring precise timing that inexperien­ced grillers may find daunting. During the initial stage of reverse-searing, the internal temperatur­e of the meat rises gradually, so it’s easier to monitor and achieve the doneness you desire. Also, the meat cooks more evenly this way, ending up with uniform color and doneness from top to bottom, not a graybrown ring of meat just beneath the crust and a reddish-blue bull’s-eye in the center.

Because the meat rests between the two stages, which allows it to relax and become juicier, the steak can be served hot off the grill right after its final sear. That means no more lukewarm steak and not having to keep hungry people waiting. Perhaps the biggest advantage to reverse-searing is the ability to smoke the steak by adding hardwood chunks or chips to your low fire. That step infuses thick cuts with the haunting flavor of barbecue and adds a spectacula­r dimension of flavor.

 ?? ANDREW PURCELL/THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Reverse-searing allows thick cuts of steak to cook to an even doneness and develop a charred crust.
ANDREW PURCELL/THE NEW YORK TIMES Reverse-searing allows thick cuts of steak to cook to an even doneness and develop a charred crust.

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