Hartford Courant

Refreshing­ly easy

What’s cooler than being cool? These stunning cocktails, which will see you through the final days of summer

- By Rebekah Peppler The New York Times

Acooler’s primary summertime function is written directly into the name: It cools. The style of drink — often a lower-in-alcohol combinatio­n of liqueur or fortified wine mixed with a carbonated beverage — is served long and tall over plenty of ice, with the promise of some relief from the heat.

Refreshing as it is to drink, a cooler is also a refreshing­ly easy cocktail to make. The formula is loose and open to interpreta­tion. A cooler is made with vermouth or sherry, port or gin, lengthened with soda water, or topped with dry tonic or fresh fruit juice. The ingredient list is often short and the method to the point: Pour right into the glass, nary a shaker or mixing glass in sight.

“Coolers are the best drinks for this weather,” said Margot Lecarpenti­er, a founder of Combat, a bar in Paris. She recommends beginning your cooling happy hour with a simple and satisfying combinatio­n: a wine-based aperitif (such as a dry red or blanc vermouth), soda water and a slice of citrus. “It’s not as sweet as a spritz and works every time,” she said.

Once you’ve mastered this combinatio­n, invite experiment­ation. According to Lecarpenti­er, coolers provide an excellent entry point to cocktail making. “Mixology can be mysterious and scary,” she said. “But with coolers, it’s easy.”

There are plenty of ways to switch things up. Use a flavored tonic. Swap in one citrus for another, or add a splash of cider vinegar. Try a few dashes of bitters, like classic Angostura, celery, chocolate or persimmon. Or add a rim: Lecarpenti­er suggests playing with salt, sugar or spices — such as Tajín, smoked pepper or sumac — depending on the drink.

Consider adding salt directly to your cooler to highlight its flavors or temper sweetness. A pinch of flaky sea salt, a dash of Worcesters­hire sauce or a splash of brine from cornichons or olives all work wonders to take a drink from fine to delightful­ly drinkable.

Even a final garnish can have a surprising­ly strong effect. “You always have to think about the smell,” Lecarpenti­er said. “If you have a leaf of basil, it is so powerful at the nose you feel like you’re drinking it, but you’re just smelling it.” In a basil vermouth cooler, the fragrant herb is used not once but twice: first to infuse a bottle of dry vermouth and later as garnish.

You can also skip carbonatio­n altogether and amplify a cocktail with juice. Lecarpenti­er often mixes fresh tomato, cucumber or pineapple juice into drinks; this watermelon-lime cooler combines fresh watermelon juice with bitterswee­t Lillet Rosé, gin, red bitter liqueur and lime juice.

For an aesthetica­lly pleasing addition that is also functional, add slices of cucumber or citrus directly to the cocktail. A Porto cooler layers a bright display of lemon, lime and orange wheels around the inside of the glass. The longer the drink of white port, vermouth and tonic sits, the more intense the citrus flavor.

The summer heat can also slowly transform a cocktail built over ice. Ice from your own freezer rarely matches the quality of that in a profession­al bar, and so drinks mixed in the comfort of home can often dilute faster.

“The first sip isn’t going to taste like the last,” Lecarpenti­er said. “So I’m not scared of making drinks that are a little intense in the first sip because I know they’re going to evolve as you drink it.”

 ?? ??
 ?? ??
 ?? ?? Basil vermouth cooler. A double dose of basil — infused in dry vermouth and used as a garnish — ensures this drink is fresh and herbal throughout.
Basil vermouth cooler. A double dose of basil — infused in dry vermouth and used as a garnish — ensures this drink is fresh and herbal throughout.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States