SLOW-COOKER BEANS

The key to tender, not-mushy beans is to cook them at the barest simmer, which means they’re perfect candidates for the slow cooker.

Makes: About 6 cups

Total time: 10 hours

1 pound dried beans (except red kidney beans; see note)

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)

Optional flavorings (see note)

1. In a 5-quart or larger slow cooker, add the beans, olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt and your selection of flavorings. Add water to cover 2 inches above the beans, then cook on low until tender, 8 to 10 hours. To test for doneness, taste more than one bean to ensure they’re all cooked through; they should flatten without much effort when pressed between your fingers. (If you plan to eat your beans cold, cook them a bit past tender, as they’ll firm as they cool.) Season to taste with salt. 2. Let cool slightly, then eat right away or store beans in their liquid in an airtight container for up to a week in the fridge or up to 3 months in the freezer.

Note: Red kidney beans have a high level of a toxin, and must be soaked and boiled before slow-cooking. For optional flavorings, fruits and vegetables, such as carrots, celery, fennel, shallots, scallions, leeks, onion, garlic or lemon peel work well. Spices and herbs, such as dried or fresh rosemary, parsley, basil, thyme, sage, oregano, bay leaves, or ground or whole spices work well. For heat, add red pepper flakes, chipotle chile in adobo, fresh jalapeño or serrano chile, dried chiles or whole peppercorns. For umami, add bacon, pancetta, ham hock, dried mushrooms, Parmesan rinds, kombu or dashi.