BUTTERY MASHED POTATOES AND CELERIAC WITH SAVOY CABBAGE

Makes: 6 servings

Note: Rutabaga or turnips can take the place of the celery root. Or simply use more potatoes.

6 large (2 pounds total) golden potatoes, cut into 1 ½-inch chunks

1 medium-size celery root (celeriac), about 1 pound, peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks

Salt

2 or 3 thick-cut slices of bacon, diced (or 2 tablespoons olive oil)

of a savoy cabbage or of a green cabbage, cored, cut into 1-inch chunks, about 4 cups

1 cup milk (or whipping cream, creme fraiche or a combination of all)

4 tablespoons butter or bacon drippings (or a combination), at room temperature Freshly ground black pepper

1. Put potato chunks and celery root chunks into a large saucepan. Add cold water to cover by 1 inch. Stir in 1 teaspoon salt. Heat to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook until a thin metal skewer or tip of a knife comes out easily, about 15 minutes. Tip off all the water from the pan.

2. While the potatoes cook, put bacon into a large skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring, until golden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes. (Or heat oil in the skillet if not using bacon.) Add cabbage. Stir to coat with the bacon fat or oil, and cook until cabbage browns slightly and wilts to tenderness, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

3. Push potatoes and celeriac to the edges of the saucepan so the pan bottom is revealed. Pour milk into the center of the pan; add the butter. Set the pan over low heat and watch until the milk is hot. Then use an old-fashioned potato masher and mash everything into the milk and butter until as smooth as you like. Fold in the cabbage with its pan juices. Season to taste with about teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper.