OVEN BEANS

The best way to cook dried beans? In the oven. The even heat keeps the water at a steady bare simmer, which results in beans that are tender all the way through — no hard spots or broken mushy bits — with almost no effort. Because the heat is dry, it also concentrates the inherent flavor of the beans and anything else thrown into the pot. You can simply simmer soaked beans in salted water or you can add aromatic ingredients, such as the garlic and dried chiles. Onion is also nice, and bacon and other cured pork products bring richness.

Total time:

2 hours, 50 minutes

1 pound dried beans, such as black, white, red, pink or pinto, picked over for stones

Salt

4 large garlic cloves, trimmed and peeled (optional)

5 dried chiles, such as morita, pasilla or guajillo, rinsed (optional)

1. Cover the beans with cold water by 2 inches in an ovenproof pot. Soak in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 hours. Or, to quick soak, bring to a boil, turn off the heat and soak for 1 hour.

2. Heat the oven to 325 degrees.

3. Drain the beans, rinse and return to the pot. Add enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, then stir in 2 teaspoons salt and, if using, the garlic and chiles. Cover and transfer to the oven.

4. Bake until the beans are tender all the way through, 45 to 70 minutes. (Red kidney and white cannellini beans should simmer and cook for at least 30 minutes until tender to be safe to eat.) The timing depends on the size of the beans and how long they soaked. If you used the chiles, pick them out and discard them. If you used the garlic, smush them into the soaking broth to flavor it. Taste the beans and season with more salt if needed.

Use immediately or transfer to airtight containers and refrigerate for up to 5 days or freeze for up to 6 months.