SOUP SEASON
Let the comfort of a warm bowl ward off winter’s chill
For much of my life, I thought of soup as a big pot of anything. I’d watch my mother make her version of Cuban ajiaco, simmering a seemingly ever-changing mix of meat and starchy vegetables — malanga, calabaza, yuca, plantains — in a pot. The only nonnegotiables were the small corn cobs that bobbed in the broth and a shower of lime juice, tangy brightness against earthy comfort. From where I stood, it seemed so effortless, so open to adaptation.
Soup is always that full of possibility. It sustains in whatever form you want it to take, whether that’s a refreshing gazpacho in summer or a hefty beef
HOT AND SOUR DUMPLING SOUP
This recipe keeps the traditional mushrooms and tofu, but adds frozen dumplings to the mix for heft. The mellow, velvety soup is ready in just 15 minutes. If you prefer a little more punch, add a bit more soy sauce, ginger and vinegar to taste.
Makes: 4 servings stew in winter.
Its comforting properties are nothing new: Doctors have recommended chicken soup to fight colds since the 12th century. And when the first restaurants opened in France in the 1700s, the French word for “restorative” was “restaurant.” What did they serve? That’s right, soup.
Soup’s simplicity is also much of its appeal. As chef-author Samin Nosrat wrote in The New York Times in 2017, most soup falls into one of three categories (puréed, chunky or brothy), and making it requires just three things: aromatics, main ingredients and a delicious broth.
These recipes largely follow those rules, but each is distinct and thrilling, showing off soup’s long-impressive range.
Total time: 15 minutes 3 tablespoons safflower or canola oil
8 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced (about 3 cups) 2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
Salt and pepper
8 cups low-sodium chicken broth
6 ounces firm tofu, cut into matchsticks (1 cup)
⅓ cup low-sodium soy sauce
2 ounces drained canned, sliced bamboo shoots, cut into matchsticks (⅓ cup)
¼ teaspoon ground white pepper, plus more to taste (optional)
12 frozen pork gyoza or potsticker dumplings (about 8 ounces)
¼ cup cornstarch 3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
Thinly sliced scallions and fresh chiles (such as red
Fresno or jalapeño), for garnish
1. In a large saucepan, heat oil over medium. Add mushrooms and ginger, and season with salt and pepper. Cook until softened, stirring occasionally, about 3 minutes. Stir in broth, tofu, soy sauce, bamboo shoots and white pepper, if using, and bring to a boil over high. Add dumplings and simmer over medium heat until cooked through, about 5 minutes.
2. In a small bowl, whisk cornstarch with ¼ cup water to form a slurry. Add slurry and vinegar to saucepan and simmer until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and more white pepper, if desired.
3. Divide soup among bowls and garnish with scallions and chiles. Serve hot.