Hartford Courant

The magic of

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frosting for cakes on its own.

The densest, smoothest and most stable of the three is Italian meringue, but it can also be the most challengin­g. It starts with a molten sugar syrup heated to 240 degrees, then carefully beaten into a bowl of whipped egg whites until the mixture cools, becoming silky verging on sticky. Italian meringues can be used more or less interchang­eably with Swiss meringues but are preferable when increased stability is required, as in profession­al kitchens and candy making.

Depending on how you handle them, egg whites can metamorpho­se from a dense, viscous liquid into various altered states: soft and spoonable; firm and sliceable; or a billowing froth that’s an essential building block of gastronomy. Beaten egg white is the airy foundation of countless mousses, souffles, cakes and — the sweetest of all — sugary, glossy

You can make this lemon meringue pie with regular or Meyer lemons: The regular ones will be sharper and brighter; the Meyers, a little softer and fruitier. meringue. Making meringue isn’t difficult, but there are some best practices that will yield the most cloudlike results.

Fat is the enemy of fluff: The presence of fat can hinder how an egg white’s proteins trap air. Always use a clean bowl for beating and be very careful when separating the eggs to avoid any yolks from tainting the whites.

Make sure eggs are cold and fresh: Cold eggs are easier to separate than room-temperatur­e ones. This will help keep the yolk intact, so it doesn’t bleed into the white. Older eggs inflate faster than fresher eggs, but meringue made from fresh eggs is more stable.

You can make meringue from pasteurize­d egg whites, but you have to beat them for a lot longer, and the results are never as voluminous.

Start low: For increased stability, always start beating your whites on low speed if using an electric mixer, then gradually increase the speed.

Add a little acid: Incorporat­ing 1 teaspoon cream of tartar or 2 teaspoons lemon juice or vinegar to 1 cup of egg whites helps prevent overbeatin­g, which causes them to denature and become lumpy. A chemical reaction between a copper- or silverplat­ed bowl and egg whites can also prevent overbeatin­g (this is why copper bowls are traditiona­l for beating whites). If you whip your whites in copper or silver, you can skip the acid.

Save leftover egg whites: They last for weeks in the refrigerat­or and months in the freezer. Thawed frozen egg whites whip up perfectly.

Be mindful of moisture: Meringues will weep and wilt when exposed to too much humidity. Try to make meringue on a dry day, and never store it in the fridge. An airtight container at room temperatur­e is your best bet.

On a lightly floured surface, and using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll pie dough into a 12-inch circle, about ⅛-inch thick. Transfer to a 9-inch pie pan (not deep dish); fold the edges over and crimp them together. Prick crust all over with a fork and chill in freezer for 30 minutes until frozen. (Cover with plastic if freezing for longer than a few hours. Well wrapped, it will last in the freezer for up to a month.)

2. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Line chilled crust with foil, fill with pie weights or dried rice, then bake for 12 minutes. Remove foil, lower oven temperatur­e to 350 degrees, and bake until pale golden, 10 to 16 minutes longer. Transfer to a rack to cool while you prepare the filling. (Leave the oven on if baking the pie immediatel­y.)

3. In a heavy saucepan, whisk together egg yolks, egg and sugar. Stir in lemon juice, zest and salt.

Add pieces of butter and cook, whisking constantly, over mediumlow heat until the mixture thickens enough to coat a spoon, about

7 to 9 minutes. An instant-read thermomete­r should register 180 degrees. Inspect the filling: If you think there are any coagulated bits of egg, strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl.

4. Pour filling into pie crust and return to the oven to bake until filling is set (it should jiggle only slightly in the center), about 18 to 25 minutes. Remove pie from oven and increase oven temperatur­e to 400 degrees for baking the meringue.

5. As the filling bakes, make the meringue: Fill a medium pot with 1 inch of water and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Using a large metal bowl, whisk together egg whites, sugar, vanilla, cream of tartar and salt. Set the bowl with the egg white mixture into the pot above the water, and whisk constantly by hand until sugar dissolves and mixture is warm (160 degrees on an instant thermomete­r) and has thickened and lightened in color, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove bowl from heat.

6. Using an electric mixer, beat on medium-low speed and gradually increase speed to high, until mixture is thick and fluffy, and stiff peaks form, about 5 to 8 minutes. Be careful not to overbeat.

7. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold in lemon zest. Mix with care to not deflate meringue: A few strokes should do it. Spread the meringue over the hot filling, making sure it meets the edges of the crust. Using a knife or spatula, swirl in a design, if you like, and bake until lightly browned, about 8 to 12 minutes.

8. Allow to cool completely and top with more lemon zest before serving.

 ?? KATE SEARS/ THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Makes: 8 servings
For the crust:
All-purpose flour, for rolling out dough
Dough for 1 (9-inch) pie
For the lemon filling:
4 egg yolks (save whites for the meringue)
1 large egg cup sugar cup plus 2 tablespoon­s freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 4 to 6 regular or Meyer lemons) 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest (from 2 lemons)
Pinch of salt
6 tablespoon­s unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
For the meringue:
4 egg whites, at room temperatur­e 1 cup sugar teaspoon pure vanilla extract teaspoon cream of tartar
Pinch of salt
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest (from 3 to 4 lemons), plus more for garnish
1. Prepare the crust:
KATE SEARS/ THE NEW YORK TIMES Makes: 8 servings For the crust: All-purpose flour, for rolling out dough Dough for 1 (9-inch) pie For the lemon filling: 4 egg yolks (save whites for the meringue) 1 large egg cup sugar cup plus 2 tablespoon­s freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 4 to 6 regular or Meyer lemons) 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest (from 2 lemons) Pinch of salt 6 tablespoon­s unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces For the meringue: 4 egg whites, at room temperatur­e 1 cup sugar teaspoon pure vanilla extract teaspoon cream of tartar Pinch of salt 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest (from 3 to 4 lemons), plus more for garnish 1. Prepare the crust:
 ?? KARSTEN MORAN/THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? There are few transforma­tions in cooking as miraculous as turning an egg into a meringue.
Use fresh (or previously frozen) egg whites:
KARSTEN MORAN/THE NEW YORK TIMES There are few transforma­tions in cooking as miraculous as turning an egg into a meringue. Use fresh (or previously frozen) egg whites:

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