After trip to Germany, it’s always time to schnitzel
You might say we schnitzeled our way through Munich on a recent trip. Between the four of us, someone ordered a schnitzel entree every day.
Sometimes we ordered the dish made with classic thinly pounded veal — more often, chicken cutlets, eggplant slices, slabs of kohlrabi and pork chops.
Turns out, many foods embrace the crunchy exterior coating and a brief stint in a hot oil as the archetypal.
Wiener schnitzel, a Viennese classic (wiener means Viennese) may have its home in Austria, but it is a mainstay throughout much of Germany. Jean Anderson, in “The New German Cookbook,” says the hallmark of a well-made schnitzel is a crumb coating that crisps and browns, yet doesn’t stick to the meat with a gummy layer.
Boneless cutlets of veal, pork or chicken prove easy to schnitzel. Likewise, thin slabs of meaty vegetables, such as kohlrabi or eggplant, take nicely to this preparation, as do hearty fish fillets. Bone-in pork chops make one of the most impressive schnitzel presentations.
Like schnitzel’s Japanese counterpart, katsu, or milanesa, Mexico and Argentina’s crumbed and fried favorite, three-stage breading ensures moist meat (or vegetables) and an impressive crust. It sounds difficult, but it’s really just a bit messy: one bowl of seasoned flour, one bowl of seasoned egg and a bowl of seasoned crunchy crumbs.
Speaking of crumbs, there are many options. Fine, dry breadcrumbs make a finely textured crust. Panko, Japanesestyle
breadcrumbs, tend to remain crunchier in the final dish. Stirring in a portion of finely ground pretzels enhances the flavor of anything you choose to schnitzel.
Coating the chops or cutlets in advance actually helps them set better. In fact, the coated food can be set on a rack over a baking sheet and then refrigerated up to several hours before
cooking.
The right cooking fat makes all the difference, too. Always use a vegetable oil suitable for high-heat cooking, such as safflower, sunflower or expeller-pressed canola.
Some restaurants choose to deep-fry their schnitzel. At home, I prefer a shallow pan-fry to help minimize mess and odors. A very large, well-seasoned castiron skillet allows me to cook with minimal fat in a single, uncrowded layer.
Serve the crispy schnitzel with an acidic flourish, such as lemon slices or crunchy pickles. Set out small bowls of assorted mustards and horseradish-spiked mayonnaise, too.
A side of sauteed cabbage with bacon and apples makes a slightly sweet accompaniment.