Hobby Farms

Get Some Greens

- By Kenny Coogan

Collard greens are not just a Southern soul-food staple.

Collard greens have a long history dating back at least a few thousand years, when people of the northern Mediterran­ean started cultivatin­g wild cabbage. From that one plant, which most likely originated in Asia before its recorded history, farmers created plants as diverse as the human population. Broccoli, cauliflowe­r, Brussels sprouts, kale, savoy, kohlrabi and collard greens all belong to the same species, making them siblings on the taxonomic family tree.

Many cuisines around the world boil greens. This practice is ubiquitous in African countries. One of my favorite dishes is gomen wat, a vegetarian Ethiopian stew (wat) that combines spices and boiled greens (gomen). The dish is transporte­d from plate to mouth with pieces of injera — a delicious, spongy textured, fermented flatbread. African slaves in the United States tried to replicate dishes reminiscen­t of their native countries by combining unwanted collard greens, vegetables and meats. The leftover juices, known as pot likker, were consumed by soaking it up with cornbread.

Collard greens are more than a Southern soul-food staple.

Headless powerhouse

Collards are more heat- and cold-tolerant than many other vegetables, allowing for an extended growing season. They contain a lot of protein and minerals but few calories. One cup of cooked collard greens provides 212 percent daily value of vitamin A, 39 percent vitamin C and 18 percent calcium. In that same single serving, collards provide nine times the daily value of vitamin K.

Although a member of the cabbage family, collards don’t form a central head. They are part of the acephala group. (Acephala is Latin for “without a head.”) The word “collard” comes from the Anglo-Saxon word colewort, which means cabbage. These headless cabbages are then, of course, grown for their leaves, which taste sweeter after a light frost. As the temperatur­e drops, collards, just like their siblings, break down their stored starch into glucose and other sugars, resulting in a sweeter taste. Growing your own collards lets you harvest the leaves at the optimal time.

Growing greens

To prepare the soil, dig to at least 10 inches as collards’ roots can extend 2 feet or more. The loosening of the soil allows the small feeder roots to expand their search for nutrients and water. Add organic matter if

the soil is mostly sand or clay. Spread a layer of 4-inch compost over the planting area.

Plants can be started from transplant­s or directly sown in the garden. Transplant­s always work better for me. Collard seeds germinate when the soil temperatur­e reaches 45 degrees Fahrenheit. On average, the seeds come up after 6 to 12 days. The colder the soil is, the more time the seeds take to sprout.

For a fall crop, plant seeds 80 days before the frost date. (For the spring crop, I start the seeds in my greenhouse about a month before I want to transplant them into the ground.) Space seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart. Using hay-bale twine, I tie the small plants to a piece of wood or bamboo to ensure they grow straight.

Collards require a lot of nitrogen to develop dark green leaves. If plants become a pale green, add a little more fertilizer such as a 10-10-10. One cup of fertilizer for a 10-foot row should be enough. Water the plants thoroughly once a week, if it doesn’t rain. Because of the canopy of the collards, weeds are usually not a problem. If weeds persist, pull them or carefully remove them using a hoe. Unwanted plants steal collards’ nutrients and water.

Common pests include aphids, harlequin bugs and cabbage loopers. Aphids suck the plant juices and are found on the underside of leaves. Harlequin bugs

also suck the plant juices causing the plant to wilt and the leaves to turn brown. Cabbage loopers feed on the foliage and resemble a light green, pale yellow or white inchworm. For organic pest options, manually remove the bugs or use a Bt-based insecticid­e and sulfur, which can help with many diseases. Neem oil also helps if plants show spots on the leaves, indicating a fungus.

varieties for your garden

GEORGIA SOUTHERN (Creole) is a pre-1880 heirloom that produces a huge yield. Tasty and flavorful. 70 days

MORRIS HEADING yields a loose head that is dark green and slow to bolt. 45 days

TOP BUNCH is a Georgia-type hybrid with semi-savoyed leaves that grow 18 to 26 inches. 50 days

VATES originated in the 1950s, when it was admired as a “new, dwarf strain.” Like all collards, it’s longstandi­ng and heat resistant. 75 days

YELLOW CABBAGE collards were originally cultivated in North Carolina in 1887, and this variety is tenderer and less bitter. It’s reminiscen­t of spinach but can handle heat and humidity. 45 days

Harvesting Help

While some people harvest the entire collard green plant, it’s more common to remove a few of the lower leaves from each plant. This lets the plant keep growing and produce more leaves.

If the central stem of the leaf is greater than half an inch, it can be tough and unpleasant to eat. Cooking such leaves for half a day softens them up. For fast recipes, remove the stem with a knife by folding the leaf in half. You can save the stem for vegetable stock. You can also add the stalks to a bag of frozen vegetables such as carrot knobs, celery leaves, herb stems and onion skins, all of which make a delicious soup base.

Once you have a pile of destemmed collards, roll them and give them a rough chop. Place the chopped leaves into a deep water-bath for half a minute to remove the debris. Now you’re ready to start cooking a mess o’ greens.

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 ??  ?? Kenny Coogan is a food, farm, and flower columnist. Coogan leads workshops about owning chickens, vegetable gardening, animal training, and corporate team building on his homestead. His newest gardening book 99½ Homesteadi­ng
Poems is now available at www.kennycooga­n.com.
Kenny Coogan is a food, farm, and flower columnist. Coogan leads workshops about owning chickens, vegetable gardening, animal training, and corporate team building on his homestead. His newest gardening book 99½ Homesteadi­ng Poems is now available at www.kennycooga­n.com.

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