Hobby Farms

Mushrooms on Compost

Grow delicious mushrooms while building organic matter for your garden.

- by Rachael Dupree

Grow delicious mushrooms while building organic matter for your garden.

There are many reasons people get into mushroom growing. For some, it offers a delicious array of alternativ­es to — let’s face it — bland grocery-store mushrooms; for others, it’s an exciting new foray into growing your own food. But if you think that mushrooms can only be grown on freshly cut logs tucked away in a shaded corner of your farm, think again. Mushrooms are skilled decomposer­s, so when looking for new ways to grow them, look no farther than your compost pile.


To understand growing mushrooms on compost, you first have to understand the role of mushrooms in nature, says Mary Kozak of mushroom spawn supplier Field and Forest Products. Fungi are decomposer­s, and each species of mushroom “eats” different materials that vary in stages of decomposit­ion. High on the rot chain are primary decomposer­s — mushrooms such as shiitakes and oysters — which get their nutrition from newly dead or just-cut trees. A little further down are litter decomposer­s, such as wine cap stropharia, that subsist on leaf litter and wood chips. Down from that are mushrooms such as blewits that thrive on garden or yard refuse material, and at the bottom, you have the compost mushrooms that can be grown on finished compost.

The type of mushrooms you want to grow in conjunctio­n with your compost will depend on your composting and culinary goals. If you are looking to break down raw materials, you’ll want to select a mushroom a little higher on the rot chain, while compost mushrooms can be “planted” in a bed of finished compost much like you would your other garden vegetables.

Bear in mind that cultivatio­n can get more complex farther down the rot chain. “The most successful and easiest way [to grow mushrooms] is on logs or straw outdoors because nature has already done the semi-selecting of the substrate,” Kozak says. However, if you’re looking to try a new mushroomgr­owing method or explore the broad range of flavors that mushrooms can provide, it’s worth experiment­ing with species farther down the decomposit­ion chain.


When aiming to grow mushrooms on compost, you’re looking for a category of mushrooms called secondary decomposer­s, which, according to mushroom-growing great Paul Stamets in his book Growing Gourmet and Medicinal Mushrooms, move in after the fungi higher up in the rot chain have done their jobs. The best-known of the compost-grown mushrooms can be found every supermarke­t across the country: the white button, crimini or portobello ( Agaricus bisporus). (Yes, these are all the same species of mushroom, so think twice before you spend a little extra on the brown variety.)

The mushroom at the grocery was likely grown indoors in a giant warehouse, but in nature, it can be found on well-manured grounds, rich soils, meadows, grasslands, forest edges and roadsides. To best replicate this environmen­t on your own farm, and thus explore flavors that the grocery store can’t compete with, Stamets recommends mixing clumps of grain spawn into compost and forming into outdoor rows; however, there’s one caveat to success: You need mushroom-growing experience.

“In order to have a reasonable crop, you have to have compost that has ability to select against [competitor fungi] that also like it, and then provide a healthy growing environmen­t,” Kozak says.

This mushroom is simply not easy to grow. But that’s OK, because if you’re a beginning mushroom grower or are looking to carve out a niche at your local farmers’ market, you still have compost-growing options. Kozak whole-heartedly recommends feasting your eyes (and stomach) upon portobello’s cousin, the almond agaricus ( Agaricus subrufesce­ns).

A Button of A Different flAvor

The thing that makes the almond agaricus shine is its flavor. That’s exactly why 2 Angels Mushroom Farm, a sustainabl­e mushroom-cultivatio­n operation in Chattanoog­a, Tennessee, added it to the menu of farm-raised and wild-crafted mushrooms it offers. The first fruiting offers big, bulky mushrooms that have a distinct almond aroma and flavor that pair well with chicken or cornmeal. As a bonus, someone with minimal mushroom-growing experience can easily tackle it.

Unlike Agaricus bisporus, almond agaricus grows well in a broad range of composts, meaning it will thrive in the diverse range of homespun composts, and while it’s a warm-weather lover, it’s hearty enough to survive as temperatur­es dip toward freezing. Plant this species after the last frost of winter — in May or June in northern climates or earlier in southern climates. Simply bury chunks of spawn in a 5-inch layer of compost, mulch and water, and you’re likely to get three to five flushes throughout the season. With these growing instructio­ns in mind, your foray into growing the almond agaricus can take several different forms.

Angela Miller, who owns 2 Angels Mushroom Farm with her husband, takes two different approaches — one grown in a bed placed around a chestnut tree and one intercropp­ed with their cucumbers — and both yield fantastic results. While growing in the shade of a tree helps

keep moisture of the bed in tact, growing the mushrooms as a companion crop has mutual benefits for the cucumbers.

“They break down large organic compounds, which are too big for plant roots to absorb, into a simple form that is bioavailab­le to the roots of nearby plants,” Miller says. “The action of fungi improves our soil while feeding our plants, and that’s a win-win for any gardener. Our cucumber production doubles when paired with this mushroom.”

Kozak has also planted the almond agaricus under greenhouse tomatoes, which can extend the harvest season of this flavorful mushroom. Seeing the scattering of pearls and white round balls pop up at the base of your crop — the first sign of mushrooms — is very exciting, she says, even for the seasoned mushroom grower.

Get Compost reADy

While the almond agaricus is pretty laid-back when it comes to it’s compost requiremen­ts, there are things you can do to make sure you get the best harvest possible. First, as a safety measure, Kozak recommends shying away from animalbase­d manures unless you are certain that your compost has reached a temperatur­e that rids it of pathogens. That being said, Miller says they’ve found the most success with well-aged rabbit manure — the key term there being “well-aged.”

You also want to create a fairly moist growing medium, Kozak says. Mushrooms obviously love a damp environmen­t, but too much moisture creates a structure that doesn’t allow for air flow. “The moisture content should be around 65 to 72%,” Kozak says. “Squeeze a handful as hard as you can and you should get one to two drops.” If you find your compost is too dry, introduce hydration gradually by spraying and turning the pile over a period of time.

As long as you have properly heated your compost heap and have maintained proper moisture, your home compost should do the trick. However, if you’re less confident in your compost-making abilities, you can always purchase compost for your mushroom beds from a reliable source.

A ChAin reACtion

As you move farther up the rot chain, there are more mushrooms that you can consider growing in conjunctio­n with your compost pile. They, of course, come in a broad range of flavors and growing ease, but here are a few to consider.

winE Cap stropharia (Stropharia Rugosoannu­lata): Aka garden giant or king stropharia, this mushroom has a crisp texture and slightly nutty flavor, and it makes a great garden companion crop. For the beginning mushroom grower who wants to grow outdoors, it’s a shoe-in.

As a litter decomposer, wine cap grows well on wood chips or sawdust as a perennial or straw as an annual. While the mushroom can be grown in a bed all its own, you can also scatter the substrates among perennial beds or under fruit trees to increase soil fertility and suppress weeds. When using wood chips or sawdust, clear the area of weeds and sod, spread the material a few inches deep, and then gently rake in the sawdust spawn. For straw, select a bale of oat or wheat straw (not hay, as it’s too rich a substrate), and soak in water for several days. Pack the hydrated straw into the

bed about an inch deep and layer with sawdust spawn, repeating for a few layers. Cover with plastic mulch to retain the moisture for a few weeks, and then remove to let the fruiting begin.

A study recently performed by the mycologist­s at Field and Forest Products showed found that plants intercropp­ed with the wine caps grew with increased vigor. If you were to grow the mushrooms in a separate bed, resulting material “eaten” by the mushrooms is a great form of organic matter that can be used in garden beds as a soil amendment, as well.

wood BlEwit ( Clitocybe Nuda): If you’re looking for a beautiful mushroom, add some color to your compost pile or garden row with wood blewit’s varying shades of pink, blue and lavender. It’s a dense mushroom with an earthy flavor. While in its natural environmen­t, wood blewit can be found growing among the forests’ decaying leaf litter, this mushroom’s preference for slightly decayed organic matter makes it a great candidate for growing on garden refuse — both in a compost pile or straight in the garden.

Because of the longer wait period for these mushrooms, it’s best to put them in a semi-permanent location. Harvest them when they are fairly dry to help preserve the shelf life, which can be up to two weeks when picked in optimal conditions.

If you plant in a semi-wild location, be aware of colorful impostors that could potentiall­y pop up in your mushroom bed. Cortinariu­s violaceus grows in similar conditions to the wood blewit, though it doesn’t have as distinct a smell and feels different, so if you suspect this lookalike is trying to move its way in, take a spore print — the Cortinariu­s violaceus print is brown while the wood blewit print is white.

shaGGy ManE ( Coprinus comatus): Also known as the shaggy inky cap, this mushroom is more suited to a well-attentive grower, but with it’s crisp, asparagusl­ike flavor, it offers another diverse option for your mushroom repertoire.

This mushroom can be grown in a home compost pile or manure-enriched soils. The shaggy mane appears to thrive in the ammonia environmen­t of active compost piles, though they won’t survive when the pile reaches its hottest point. The mushrooms need to be harvested at a young age — early in the morning — because they quickly “melt” from a process called autodigest­ion. For this reason, they also don’t have a shelf-life, and therefore, should be eaten immediatel­y. While this makes it impractica­l for the market grower, it can be a fun project for a hobbyist.

You probably already know your garden is full of interestin­g science-experiment potential, but introduce mushrooms to your beds and compost pile that are lower down on the rot chain, and the wonders of nature truly come to life.

Rachael Dupree is the former managing editor for HobbyFarms.com. She grows food and medicine on her 50-acre farm near Lexington, Kentucky. When not out working her land, you can find her in her kitchen not following recipes, on her yoga mat in a satisfying pigeon pose, or exploring the world’s nooks and crannies.

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 ??  ?? Almond agaricus is a cousin to the white button mushroom, crimini and portabella.
Almond agaricus is a cousin to the white button mushroom, crimini and portabella.
 ??  ?? Growing mushrooms as a companion crop has benefits for garden vegetables as well.
Growing mushrooms as a companion crop has benefits for garden vegetables as well.
 ??  ?? The first flush produces single, large mushrooms, while later flushes produce smaller mushrooms (far right).
The first flush produces single, large mushrooms, while later flushes produce smaller mushrooms (far right).
 ??  ?? Almond agaricus mushrooms can be cultivated in larger scale in beds within high tunnels and greenhouse­s (right).
Almond agaricus mushrooms can be cultivated in larger scale in beds within high tunnels and greenhouse­s (right).

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