Hot Rod - - Three Ways To 1,000 HP -

While we’re all cheer­ing for 1,000 hp on stock-bot­tom LS en­gines, the Toy­ota Supra’s

2JZ has been churn­ing four­digit num­bers on the street even be­fore Brian owed Dom a 10-sec­ond car. With fac­tory tur­bocharg­ing and seven main bear­ings, it didn’t take long for the Supra to gain a no­to­ri­ous rep­u­ta­tion in Ja­pan for mea­sur­ing horse­power by the Richter scale. In later years, the U.S. im­port in­va­sion reignited in­ter­est in Toy­ota’s tower of power, as it of­fered a big im­prove­ment in dis­place­ment and strength over the ven­er­a­ble four-banger found stan­dard in most Ja­panese sports coupes. We met Jay Meagher dur­ing Drag Week™ 2016, when he placed third in Su­per Street Small-Block Power-Ad­der with a stout

8.277 at 163.272 mph. He runs Real Street Per­for­mance out of San­ford, Florida, spe­cial­iz­ing in Supras while keep­ing his doors open to most any late-model speed.

Jay is not shy about his views of Toy­ota’s 3.0L straight-six: “I think the 2JZ is the Ja­panese small-block Chevy. They’re an in­cred­i­bly vi­able op­tion and in­cred­i­bly af­ford­able to hot rod.” The en­gine was pro­lific in Toy­ota and Lexus ap­pli­ca­tions, though we only saw its purest turbo ver­sions in the Supra. Out the gate, Jay rec­om­mends buy­ing a USDM or JDM 2JZ-GTE with fac­tory tur­bocharg­ing if you can. You can find the nat­u­rally as­pi­rated 2JZ in 1990s to early-2000s Lexus GS300s, IS300s, and SC300s. With­out crack­ing them open, they can han­dle 500–600 hp with a turbo, but by the time you’ve gone through one to prep one for the ven­er­a­ble 1,000hp mark, you would have saved money start­ing with a tur­bocharged vari­ant that car­ries most of the hard­ware al­ready.

The in­ter­net is full of ru­mors about which source of one is best, but re­gard­less of do­mes­tic mar­ket (U.S. or Ja­pan) or in­clu­sion of vari­able-valve tim­ing (VVT), Jay men­tions they’re all equally ca­pa­ble with the same sup­port­ing mods. In fact, the VVT re­duces turbo lag sig­nif­i­cantly, if you need low-end re­sponse (road rac­ing or drift­ing, for ex­am­ple).

We’ll get to how easy it is to build power next, but first the oil­ing sys­tem has to ad­dressed. Sim­ply put, Toy­ota never in­tended it to rev as high as what rac­ers needed.

“If you’re go­ing much more than 8,300 to 8,500 rpm, and you don’t have money for a dry-sump, then you should use an alu­minum rod,” he says, in ad­di­tion to an up­graded oil pump. Alu­minum rods sim­ply stress the ro­tat­ing as­sem­bly less, sav­ing the bear­ings as the 2JZ reaches for five-digit rpm num­bers. Camshafts and springs are highly rec­om­mended, but take note to or­der a fac­tory set of 3S-GTE valve shims and buck­ets. The 2JZ uses shim-over­bucket ad­just­ment for valve clear­ance, mean­ing that at high lift the camshaft can ac­tu­ally spit a shim out. The 3S-GTE’s ar­range­ment places the shim un­der the bucket, elim­i­nat­ing this.

“If you want to make 700 hp, it just takes the right tur­bocharger, oc­tane, and tun­ing on the stock ECU,” Jay says. “A dry-sump and a proper ECU, like a Motec, is money well spent. The small­est turbo I’d use is some­thing like a 66mm tur­bine—like a Pre­ci­sion 67/66 and add valvesprings, and you’ve got some­thing that makes good power from 4,500 to 8,500.” For se­ri­ous horse­power, bil­let long­blocks are out there, but there’s noth­ing wa­ter-jack­eted for the street just yet, but there are stock 2JZ blocks in the 6s that prove the point.

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