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Border issues are key in the tight 23rd Congressional District race in Texas.

ALPINE— A roostertail of dust trails a pickup truck across the vast Milton Faver ranch.

To the south is the Rio Grande and the U. S.- Mexico border, which is as turbulent now as it was in the 1850s when the ranch was frequently raided by Comanche headed north to their summer hunting grounds.

This spread is a perfect example of the vast expanse of Texas’ 23rd Congressional District — exactly what Bob Wills meant when he sang “Miles andMiles of Texas.”

Nearly 800 miles of the Rio Grande run through the district, which is larger than Rhode Island, Connecticut and Delaware combined.

Now, there’s a battle for every square mile. The far- flung district is the object of a hotly contested race between U. S. Rep. Francisco “Quico” Canseco, R- San Antonio, and state Rep. Pete Gallego, D- Alpine.

Escalating violence among drug cartels in Mexico and America’s decision to close the border after the Sept. 11, 2001, terrorist attacks have altered border life.

Some people clamor for more security. Others think the massive Border Patrol and law enforcement buildup has reached an Orwellian state.

“It’smore a fear of the unknown,” said Dick Bowen, of El Paso, who ran for Congress from El Paso in 1992

Trade, immigration and border security have emerged as the hottest issues in this race.

In Presidio, where most storefronts are boarded up along potholed O’Reilly Street, border trade and the economy are huge concerns.

“I sell a lot toMexico,” said Olivia Sanchez, whose family owns A& C Furniture. “Right now, there is nothing.”

Stepped- up U. S. law enforcement at the bridge has made it difficult for Mexicans to cross from Ojinaga and other towns inMexico to shop, Sanchez said.

Although she favors President Barack Obama in the upcoming election, she is unfamiliar with the congressional candidates.

Canseco, a freshman lawmaker, and Gallego, who has represented the region for 20 years in the state House, both support measures to boost border trade.

Both are trying to convince voters they are best suited to help.

And that makes the race a coin flip, experts say.

“It’s a toss- up,” said DavidWasserman, a House analyst with The Cook Political Report in Washington, a nonpartisan newsletter.

Also on the ballot are Libertarian Jeffrey Blunt and Green Party candidate Ed Scharf.

There are slightly more Republican voters, but Latinos, who vote 2- to- 1 Democrat, make up 66 percent of the district.

Democrats, who need 25 seats to reclaim control of the House, have targeted Canseco.

And the battle has prompted an all- out TV ad war in San Antonio.

Republicans and

conservative groups have secured $ 2.7 million in TV ad time, and Democrats have $ 2.3million in air time.

To date most of the ads have been attacks.

Both candidates bristle at themudslinging.

“It is horrible, it really is,” Canseco said. “Every one of those ( Gallego) ads is ludicrously false.”

Gallego said ads run by his opponent show that “Washington andMr. Canseco have lost sight of what this is all about.”

But few voters outside San Antonio have seen the ads.

They have not aired in heavy rotation inWest Texas.

Alpine is Gallego’s hometown, and Canseco has made a concerted effort to rally local Republicans there.

Voters voice concern with the border.

They either want more badges to fight crime, or worry the government is infringing on personal liberties and impeding commerce with the post- 9/ 11 law enforcement buildup.

“The border is not secure. Drug smuggling and gun smuggling is still going on. It’s worse than it was,” said Joaquin Jackson, a retired Texas Ranger and National Rifle Association board member.

Jackson said the Obama administration has not done enough to protect the region’s residents from the wave of crime inMexico that is spilling over the border.

Famous checkpoint

Jackson said he will vote for Canseco, who has a pending bill to better define cross- border violence and help cities and states receive federal help.

Canseco said the violence is affecting cities miles from the border.

“It’s coming up to San Antonio and other areas. It’s pretty visible and it’s pretty scary,” Canseco said.

Others think the government reaction to border security has gone too far.

A Border Patrol immigration checkpoint on Interstate 10, on a cactuscovered bluff above Sierra Blanca, has gained notoriety for the number ofmusical entertainers who have been embarrassed overmarijuana and narcotics arrests.

Drug- sniffing dogs have snared the entourages ofWillie Nelson, Snoop Dogg, Nelly and Fiona Apple.

Similar checkpoints are established off all main highways coming off the border.

Life in Terlingua

Once amercurymining town, Terlingua is now a year- round haven for colorful characters who seek a slower pace than cities provide.

Tourism— river rafting, hiking, birding, geology— is the top industry.

Jon Blackmon, a retiree who runs an astronomy website and helps out at the Terlingua Store, said the heavy Border Patrol and law enforcement presence has led to a decline in visitors.

“Border Patrol has just killed our tourists,” Blackmon said. “It’s had an impact in a negative way, and they just don’t find anyone here smuggling,” he added. “If they would just leave us alone, wewould do just fine.”

Bill Ivey, owner of the Terlingua Trading Co., said there are more “Border Patrol than illegals.”

“It’s a little on the ridiculous side. I can’t remember the last time I saw an illegal alien,” said Ivey, who has contributed $ 500 to Gallego.

“The border issue is one of the biggest in the district. Pete has a good understanding of it because he grew up in the area. He takes amore realistic approach than those in Arizona,” Ivey said.

Gallego said that while “security is a vital interest and a big concern,” there has to be a balanced approach.

Immigration stands

On immigration, there are stark differences between the candidates.

Canseco has opposed Dream Act legislation that would allow eventual citizenship for undocumented children who attend college or join themilitary. Gallego said he supports Dream Act legislation.

Gallego agrees that crime is up along the border, but he argues that it is not up in all locales.

He agrees with the Obama administration that the border is more secure than at any time in history.

Criminal and immigration case filings in the U. S. Western District of Texas, which closelymirrors the congressional district and includes San Antonio, Del Rio, Presidio and El Paso, jumped from 8,996 cases in 2006 to 11,854 cases in 2011, according to the U. S. Administrative Office for U. S. Courts.